Sewing Revival Classic Shorts

I'm a fan of Sewing Revival Patterns by Kiwi designer Janine. I had Mapua shorts on my wish list for a while, then a friend made these Classic Shorts so that tipped the decision.

(Final garment above.)

Janine's patterns are usually pretty straight forward, and I have made a few; Fantail, Kingfisher and Heron Tops, Snug and Sidewinder pants, and the Nikau and Stitchbird dress - Phew! These patterns were my first foray into digital patterns.

(Final garment above.)
About the Classic Shorts. I made S12. When finished, the sizing, which has never been an issue, was voluminous. 

Fabric: I made these from pants which my husband bought for me on a work trip to Thailand. I alway loved the fabric, but as a Kiwi woman, 175cm tall, clothes made in Asia, by and large, are always a little bit problematic. 

I love wearing shorts. It tells me it is good weather, and I am not at work. They are practical, and I like the fun of being a woman in her late 50s still wearing shorts.

But these, to be frank, just felt big. Too big. Baggy in the bum, and the side seams sat about 1" behind the my side waist. I wanted to make another pair, and had/have some leftover fabric earmarked. So I decided to cut a size smaller. I checked my measurements again versus the pattern sizing. I should be a size 12? But I decided to cut a S10.

I get my patterns printed on A0 at my local copy shop. If the patterns are layered I usually get a size up and a size down printed - this I find so much better than having all sizes printed. Then I draft onto frost cloth, or inexpensive vilene from the local emporium. So I traced and cut out a S10 front and back. Then I got my band and laid it onto the A0 sheet. Hang on! I had cut a size 16! Ah ha. No wonder they felt so large.

My second pair are still in the queue. Meantime I have re-sized. I took 1/2" from the front inner leg seam, and 1" from the back inner leg, and raised the hem by 1". I like the feel of the re-sized version way better. Live and learn!

The S16:

  

Lucerne Blouse

 This was my second Hey June Lucerne Blouse. I was really taken with the tie sleeve detail and this type of easy to wear top is the mainstay of my work wardrobe. Top + Skirt, or Top + Pants.

I made a Size 12, and I think with no changes - I've left my precious sewing project notebook on the counter of Tessuti in Melbourne and currently waiting for my son to post itwaiting for my son to post it home, so I am not 100%. 

Fabric: My current area for improvement is fabric choice. Aiming for drape. This fabric has drape, but the rest I am not sure having purchased it in an op shop. Polyester is my guess now, but I was thinking viscose when I bought it. I like print, and abstract/geometric patterns. The pattern here is smaller than my last make - the Olivia.

It is an easy pattern to make, I made View A this time. I made a small mistake on one of the sleeve ties, so that when I turned the tie end out, it was facing the inside of the shirt. I'll just double check this as I go next time.

I like the neck line. There are no darts but the top works well and this dartless design gives it a bit of swing.

I'm not in love with this blouse, so I am thinking of it as a wearable toile. Why:

• polyester fabric
• once complete it reminded me of a uniform top worn by staff at my bank
• the curved hem (which I should have run a gathering thread through to get it to sit better).

Next time?

• try for viscose or rayon or possibly an old linen table cloth (I have several) 
• straighten the hem, either a deep hem or possibly even a wide elastic band?
• lengthen the sleeves by 5-8cm.

The first Lucerne, in case you were wondering. I made View B, the petal sleeve. Those sleeves were not me, and, again, I made a poor fabric choice - the theme! The hem was straighter, just due to the size of the piece of fabric I had. I did wear it for a day to check the back width for comfort. Then it went in the donate pile.