Sewing Revival Classic Shorts

I'm a fan of Sewing Revival Patterns by Kiwi designer Janine. I had Mapua shorts on my wish list for a while, then a friend made these Classic Shorts so that tipped the decision.

(Final garment above.)

Janine's patterns are usually pretty straight forward, and I have made a few; Fantail, Kingfisher and Heron Tops, Snug and Sidewinder pants, and the Nikau and Stitchbird dress - Phew! These patterns were my first foray into digital patterns.

(Final garment above.)
About the Classic Shorts. I made S12. When finished, the sizing, which has never been an issue, was voluminous. 

Fabric: I made these from pants which my husband bought for me on a work trip to Thailand. I alway loved the fabric, but as a Kiwi woman, 175cm tall, clothes made in Asia, by and large, are always a little bit problematic. 

I love wearing shorts. It tells me it is good weather, and I am not at work. They are practical, and I like the fun of being a woman in her late 50s still wearing shorts.

But these, to be frank, just felt big. Too big. Baggy in the bum, and the side seams sat about 1" behind the my side waist. I wanted to make another pair, and had/have some leftover fabric earmarked. So I decided to cut a size smaller. I checked my measurements again versus the pattern sizing. I should be a size 12? But I decided to cut a S10.

I get my patterns printed on A0 at my local copy shop. If the patterns are layered I usually get a size up and a size down printed - this I find so much better than having all sizes printed. Then I draft onto frost cloth, or inexpensive vilene from the local emporium. So I traced and cut out a S10 front and back. Then I got my band and laid it onto the A0 sheet. Hang on! I had cut a size 16! Ah ha. No wonder they felt so large.

My second pair are still in the queue. Meantime I have re-sized. I took 1/2" from the front inner leg seam, and 1" from the back inner leg, and raised the hem by 1". I like the feel of the re-sized version way better. Live and learn!

The S16:

  

2023 Plans, Make Nine and Other Ideas

 

I love seeing everyone's ideas and plans for their sewing year ahead, and as always can't pass up a chance to record my own. 

Row 1: Hudson's Men's Pants (for Secondo son), Morgan Jeans (2 years in the queue so far), Mai Tai Dress.

Row 2: Mapua shorts (reworking a pair of Thai print pants), <10 pieces fabric, sew up this velvet which is donkey's years old.

Row 3: SH7 Free Range Pants (pattern and fabric have been in the queue for some time), Kingfisher top (with stash fabric), Stacker Jacket (in beautiful cord purchased for this project in 2022).

Although the more I sew, I find it harder to nail down a specific plan, and continue to have themes, but enjoy detours as well.

Themes this year are:

1 To try something new - Frocktails Auckland hopefully, but a 'frock' at least. I am planning a Mai Tai dress although curently do not have any fabric - I know, what a problem huh. I love the sound of Frocktails, and it seems the perfect excuse to make a more dressy frock. Thinking about the year ahead, I can see a couple of other opportunities that a new frock to wear would be fun.

2 I am still chasing that elusive goal to get the pieces of fabric down to less that 10. Currently it stands at 14 - hence the note on my sewing room board. I am aiming to keep this front and centre and really try to nail this.

3 Ditto digital patterns; I would like to have 6 or fewer in the sewing folder awaiting that vital next step to become a garment.

Along the way I do want to make up some pattern-and-fabric combos which are lying in wait.  This includes reworking some RTW garments and trying a top with fabric blocking.

So there it is recorded - let's get cracking!

More Elastic Waisted Pants - Sidewinders

 An impromtu week at home with Covid gave me a chance to sew. After nailing a couple of pair of shorts for my son, I sewed up another pair of Sewing Revival Sidewinder pants.

These were in fabric possibly from my local emporium, not sure. A black/grey cotton pinstripe it has a slightly snuggly wrong side which has a bit or warmth. Unforunately altough I have made these pants before, with some fitting modifications, I had not recorded these well on my pattern so cut to the orignal. The result is the pants sit lower than I like. (I have adjusted the pattern now and made careful notes!)

I love the concept of the sidewinding seam on these pants but this fabric does not really highlight this. I like the flat front finish, and the fit is comfortable without being too baggy in the rear. The construction of the band is great and I was pleased with the finish. I added some elasrtic to the back half of the cuff, a detail copied from a friend's RTW pants.

I have previously made this pattern 3 times, altough only one of those pairs is still in my wardrobe - down to poor fabric choice for the other two.

My relationship with elastic waisted pants is a mixed one. I like the finsh and look of fitted trousers, but given I have a pair of clasic pants hanging half finished in my sewing room, I think I am drawn to the elastic waists as these are more fit-friendly. My me-made collection includes Sidewinders and Pallisade pants. My blue sidewinders are the most well worn. The Pallisades I have worn a little less. I prefer the cleaner line of the pockets on the sidewinder to the 'hippy' Pallisade pockets.

Next on the list is a pair of Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks, I will be interested to try this design.