Oh Olivia

There are a number of RTW garments I wear and love, which I often dream about recreating. This is harder than it seems. Mostly I think it comes down to fabric choice. In RTW garment design begins with the fabric. I am beginning to understanding the importance of this concept.

I chose this pattern after an extensive trawl on the Foldline pattern site. I love this site. It is so good to be able to compare different patterns and elements and designers. Olivia is one of two Atelier Jupe patterns I bought, the other is Frida.

The pattern has a handy guide to the pattern pieces and seam allowances. I’ve not seen this before and it was helpful. (I love a good list or table!) The downside with the construction is you leap straight into the front placket. Here I did find the instructions lacking in detail. I read them through a few times then came across a wonderful sew along. Which was truly great, thank you Andrea at 'Beyond the pink door'.

I cut size 40, adding 5cm to the body length, and 8cm to the sleeve.

I sewed the buttons on without button holes. But that stage of the make I knew I could take it on and off.

I like the raglan sleeeves and could use french seams next time, depending on the farbic. The skinny hem works OK.

So, what did not go well. The fabric was gifted from a pile on its way to fabric rescue. Love the colours.  It is very light weight shirting. Too light for this pattern. Which would work beetter with a little more heft and drape. (Drape is my sewing word of the year for 2025, this is another example in my sewing where more drape would give a better result.)

Love the colours and the print. But I have discovered that a large print on a top is too overwhelming. Looking at the smaller pieces like the collar, I don’t think the print works at all well. I have a couple of cream/pale bottoms which will help lift it a little.

So I have learnt a lot. I’ve worn this, and probabaly will wear it again, until I can create a better version. We will see. 

And Olivia? Yes I will make it again, but in a better choice of fabric.

Lela Drawstring Skirts

I thought a drawstring topped skirt would be a useful addition to my wardrobe, and chose this SewDIY.Com pattern to try. I used an old tablecloth which came from my Aunt's house when we were clearing it out some years ago. I love fabrics with story and connections.

The weight was perhaps a little heavier than ideal, but the pattern I absolutely love. The age of the table cloth meant there were a few holes and spots of wear and tear to navigate in the cutting. But that was well and truly off set by the fun of pattern matching. This is not something anyone else will appreciate, but it makes me smile when I wear this skirt.

I made S14, and straightened the lower hem, matching front and back hem length.

I was thinking this would be a casual skirt but have worn it to work a few times. 

I love pattern. Geometric, line and shapes are my favourites. Oh and I like colour. This does present a problem as I need some plain pieces to match with all the pattern!

This winter I was lucky to have a week long trip to Bali, going from mid to low teen temperatures to high twenties. A couple of weeks out I came to thinking a travel skirt would be good. This pattern is so easy it lent itself to a quick make. I made this from my stash, once again fabric with a connection - this linen came from a friend's collection after she died.

This time a monotone brown/grey, perfect for travelling and matched everything else I took with me. I had 1.1m of 140cm wide fabric - perfect match.

Scrap Busting Remy Raglan

I was inspired to make a scrap top after seeing Blogless Anna’s ‘Jigsaw Puzzle’ Remy Raglan.

It was a detour away from my, now long-standing, goal of sewing up fabric I have bought, but I couldn’t resist. Plus in January we are going to be in Melbourne, and anticipate it will be hot, very hot, so loose fitting linen had appeal.

I consulted an expert fabric friend about my options, and narrowed it down to four pieces. Similar weights and something in common in terms of colour and pattern.

I was a little uncertain about how to put these together, and settled on the pattern for the sleeves, mainly as there was not a lot of this. In fact I ended up with a centre seam on one seam. While I was feeling quite pleased with this I realised I had cut two identical sleeves instead of a pair!

Unusually for me, I did not cut the whole garmet out to start. Instead I made the sleeves and the front first before settling on the final choice for the back.

My decision was the blue, I can’t resist mixing colour. But, I slept on it, and, here’s a confession, in the early hours of the morning I thought about Sarai Mitnik’s rule of three. This is a gem of advice from the Seamwork founder, helping sewers  to create and wear garments. What three outfits can you create with the garment you are about to make?

So I pared it back, using the same green brushed cotton for the back as well as the front.

The result is safer, I still like the colour contrast which Anna put together so well. But I hope it will mix and match with more pieces in my wardrobe.

This is a loose fitting top and I trimmed 15mm from the side seams. I made S 12. Turns out the sleeves worked OK with a little trimming too.

A Travel Bag - Take 1

 There is nothing like make-your-own to solve a gap. After a trip in April this year, I wanted a smaller bag to take on the plane and when out exploring. Enough to fit a cardigan and drink bottle, plus the other 'essentials' which are good to have on hand when you head out for a day of uncertain activity in a new location. Time to to confess I am hopless at travelling light.

 

This project was the third bag I have made from a Japanese sewing Pattern Book I bought in Tokyo in 2019. So good to actually use sewing related materials, fabric and patterns.

I know from past experience the check the scale, most things Japanese are smaller than a Kiwi girl might expect!

 

Fabric was a mix of stash lining combined with some inexpensive heavier fabric from our local emporium. The straps came from Miss Maude.

There was some learning in the making of this bag. Slightly awkward to sew but actually my faithful Bernina 900 handled it OK. It is still good to stop and check proportions along the way. The dome closure straps were miles too long, and I was modifiying these the night before a trip. The corflute I used in the base was too thick which meant the bag was not comfortable on the back. This was easier to remedy than I thought, and a slimmer weight piece of plastic folder worked well. 

After a week long trip overseas the size was OK, except the side pocket for a drink bottle is too small for my typical sized bottle. The 4cm straps were a little to wide to comfortable hold when carrying by hand - so I sewed these together at a friend's suggestion. Main issue though was a zip would be better across the top. July 2025 I have a trip booked, enough time to make another version.

Remy Raglan

Finally I have made this infamous pattern! The Sew House Seven Remy Raglan. The fabric I purchased on line from The Fabric Store after seeing a shirt on IG. And it languished in my stash until I made this match.

The pattern is very straightforward. I liked the instruction blog, which lovely clear pictures. I made S12, adding to the length of the body and sleeve (I’m 5’9”). The french seams are a nice finish, and the neck binding and button tab works well.

   

I do love the sleeves, great length and easy to wear and the slim cuff is a nice touch.

 

Turns out I have worn this a lot with a me-made Augustina Boxy Top, and a Simplicity 4036 Skirt which are faithfuls in my work wardrobe. 

In The Folds Barkly Skirt

 

I like a good skirt! Short skirts, well above the knee length, are often worn items in my wardrobe. These include both RTW and me-made. 

This pattern ticks a few boxes; 

• slightly A line, 
• pockets, 
• fitted waistline with no gathers or pleats.

The instructions were straight forward. Another plus was its many panels it can be cut out of a smallish piece of fabric.

Which leads me to the fabric. This was something I was gifted. The donor thought of me as it fits well in my colour pallet. And I like the combo with teal as worn here.

BUT, here’s the thing. It was very weighty fabric, more upholstery weight than garment weight. This is opposite to the problem I have had recently with too lightweight fabric!

I wore this a few times, and then donated it. I wonder if it found a new owner, and did they have the same experience as I did, and feel like they were wearing the sofa.

I will definitely make this skirt again, just choose the fabric with more care!

French Navy The Langston Trousers

 

These are my Langston pants. My sewing bud Cate tells me they are ‘on trend’ which makes me smile. I am seldom ‘on trend’!

I enjoyed the detail in this pattern, and the top stitching, and fun pockets. I left off the claw hammer strap. 

At the start I decided to tack the key pieces together to check the fit. Good plan, but by doing this the construction order will not follow the pattern instructions. 

I have a mixed relationship with elasticated pants. Love the comfort, but am overly concerned about the look, especially the back view. Maybe PTSD following Intermediate School rompers. Maybe the back yoke helps with this style.

After wearing these a few times, I take these on and off without undoing the fly. Perhaps the elastic should have been a little tighter. They are comfortable. 

The fit works. I made size E, and added 8cm (3”) to the lower leg. With previous elastic waisted pants I have ended up putting elastic in the cuff. These have quite a wide leg which I like. Good to change things up a bit.

This fabric I bought specifically for casual pants. BUT its weight is too light.

Sadly this has been a theme running through my recent sewing where I am aware at the cutting stage that my fabric choice is going to let me down. So, a goal for 2025 sewing is weight and drape!

One detail which was a bit tricky was the metail zip. I bought one at our local emporium, but the quality was not great. Then, at a sewing retreat, someone recommended trying op shops. Success!

My goal was to make some wear-when-not-working- pants. My go to is usually jeans, and shorts in summer. It is nice to have an alternative.

I think I will make these again, with a heavier fabric - watch this space.