Another Classic Shirt

I like sewing shirts! And making this Liesl and Co Classic Shirt for a third time was fun. See my earlier makes here.

This was an opportunity to lift my game. The fabric was beautiful; yarn dyed, laundered, linen cotton which was soft and also held creases and was easy to ‘finger press’ for those small details during construction.

Examining the fit of my previous Classic Shirts, I made narrower cuffs this time. This shortened the sleeve length which is better. I also lowered the dart and the pockets, just by an inch. In 2022 I had planned and written about sizing down, but actually stayed with size 12. 

I added tabs so I can roll the sleeves up. These tabs did not work where I locate them to start with. They lined up with the sleeve placket opening, and were set too low. It was a small adjustment to move them closer to the front, and lift them. It is a nice detail.

For the collar construction I referred to two posts, Four Square Walls and Closet Core. These show a different order for assembly. I think I should have used hand stitching to the inside facing to control the result. In my research I also found this great Tilly and the Buttons ten tips.

Then I had a wee diaster. Feeling confident, it was all going well, I did the sleeve plackets, managing to sew them on the wrong side of the sleeve, and back to front! Arghhh. My immediate plan was just to live with these back to front plackets. There is not a lot of difference between the right side and the wrong side of the fabric either which was helpful. Does anyone else do this rationalisation? So I continued on the baste the tucks, and sew the sleeve seam. 

Then I did a little research, and found two fantastically helpful guides. I loved Helen’s Closet Patterns and Itch to Stitch’s guide (with helpfully helpfully different fabrics for the three pieces) to sleeve plackets. Particularly the Itch to Stich where there is emphasis on checking right side/wrong side, and a helpful tip to check the small placket is on the skinny/small side of the slit, and the large placket, with the house top, is on the large side. So very helpful, I got it! 

Research always pays off really, is what I am learning. My final help on the placket was this great post from Off the Cuff which showed beginning the placket top stitching at the bottom of the ‘house’. It also explained so clearly the importance of capturing the small clipped triangle with this first line of stitching.

Soooo I unpicked. The sleeve seams, the tucks, the top stitching, and then finally, after a wee pause, I carefully unpicked, stitch by stitch, the original joining seam between the sleeve and the placket. Now this seam is sewn first and then clipped, risky territory to be undoing this. I applied small square of interfacing over this clipped end, to the wrong side. Then I cut the new plackets 1cm longer. Well I actually cut eh new placket to the pattern, then I remember my plan and cut them again with the extra. Good thing this is a small piece. Now I had the wonderful instructions to follow, and I put it all back together.

Inserting the sleeves was a dream. I like to sew up the sleeve seam and the shirt side seam, then insert the sleeve. I use a hand sandwich technique I learned in a sewing class 25 years ago.

Never any gathering thread, and only a few pins. I keep the shirt body on top, and with my hand in between the shirt and sleeve fabric gently ease the fuller sleeve fabric into the machine.

I was surprised at how quickly this shirt came together. This makes me realise thinking a particular make is 'complex', or ‘big’ can deter me. Perhaps I can change the way I approach my sewing. Actually I enjoyed all the small steps; pocket assembly, the ‘burrito method’ for the yoke etc.

One of my current goals is to make better fabric choices. This was a certainly success in this regard. I also want to sew clothes which I wear. I did an analysis of my wardrobe, looking at what I own, versus what I wear, by ‘activity’, e.g. work, weekend, exercise. This highlighted I would like more casual clothes. Different to work clothes, which do dominate my hangers, and previous sewing. This shirt ticks the 'casual' box; I have worn it to work, but I wear it out with friends, or to the supermarket, and feel good doing so.

Venturing Into Underwear

 My two prompts for making undies were Helen and Caroline on Love 2 Sew, and Love_Lucie. It seemed a new challenge, and also one small way to address some of the leftover knit fabric which is starting to mount up.

Three pairs in I was hooked. A year on there is an opportunity for some performance reviews. 

Pattern: Megan Neilson Acacia Undies.

Fabric: I learned early that more stretch is better, much better. And in 2023 I fell in love with some rayon knit. This was leftpver from mighties, so soft to wear. But I must confess that this fabric has not withstood the rigours of regular washing - even in my front loading machine.

Elastic: At first this seemed tricky to find, but then, courtesy of a 10 minute search I managed to order a bunch of different colours, and some patterned. And get the sense that like so many sewing 'materials' it is easy to build up a stash which realistically may last quite a while! At the time of writing I have just released some of the earlier purchased patterned elastics, as this do not equate to comfort, especially around the legs. Fortunately there is a perfectly timed Fabric Rescue event in my area . . .let it go . . . let it go.

As everyone acknowledges, size is always personal preference, and adjustments may be required in only one dimension. 

1 I made S14 to start - slightly volumous in a very stretchy rayon. 

2 Then a pair same size in a less stretchy cotton knit. Same deal, slightly large.

3 But downsizing in the same fabric and using a lingerie elastic which required folding the fabric in created a pair which are possibly a little brief for my taste.

So I have a wee pile of fabric and an opportunity to play with the sizing. 

My 2024 batch of 8 pairs, all from leftovers, has taken my making process up a notch. Starting with the pattern I made a pair in S12, and another in size 12 tapering to S14 in the back, matched with a size 12 front. Small modification to the leg elastic, 1cm longer, and I reckon this is about perfect for the 2024 me.

Fabric for this batch was cotton, cottom/lycra, merino, and unknown. Matching elastic colours worked well for 3 of the fabrics and was more challenging for my pea green merino. I found a cool hot pink FOE at the local Emporium, and liked the colour combo. Sadly though this did not have near enough stetch.

I can see that finding the optimum fabric will always be a bit hit and miss. But this will not deter me from continuing!

The pleasure of small sewing projects in batches.

 Do you ever want to sew, but find when you are on the cusp of a large project actually starting is a bit daunting? This definitely happens for me. Currently I have fabric and patterns set to go for a dress and shirt but to begin, well it seemed to need more energy than I had this past weekend. So a small project is a perfect distraction and a sideways path into sewing!

I made 3 door stops. The need arose as the fabric on an earlier model split, released the sand filling - messy! The pattern is copied from a doorstop made for me by a friend. A wonderful idea, very handy in our climate with wind gusts which can change direction rapidly and often. 

These take a small amount of fabric. This is a floral recycled curtain, which I recall a long time ago purchasing at an op shop. I have mostly made aprons with it to date, but still have several largish pieces left. (I 'rediscovered' these in the ongoing process of moving and organising and shifting things around which seems to be my life. Made worse throurgh a lengthly house renovation and student sons moving in and out of home for the holidays.)

I like batch sewing. The way I can organise the piles and process and see my construction methods evolve, and hopefully improve, through sewing the same things multiple times over.

A modification to these ones are the filling. The last batch I filled only with sand. Once finally stitched up and complete I observed they did not have the same erect shape as the original. Some research revealed I have missed the vital final step of filling the base with sand, and the top with some 'regular' stuffing. For these I recycled some possum wool from a much loved jumper which had shrunk.

2023 Plans, Make Nine and Other Ideas

 

I love seeing everyone's ideas and plans for their sewing year ahead, and as always can't pass up a chance to record my own. 

Row 1: Hudson's Men's Pants (for Secondo son), Morgan Jeans (2 years in the queue so far), Mai Tai Dress.

Row 2: Mapua shorts (reworking a pair of Thai print pants), <10 pieces fabric, sew up this velvet which is donkey's years old.

Row 3: SH7 Free Range Pants (pattern and fabric have been in the queue for some time), Kingfisher top (with stash fabric), Stacker Jacket (in beautiful cord purchased for this project in 2022).

Although the more I sew, I find it harder to nail down a specific plan, and continue to have themes, but enjoy detours as well.

Themes this year are:

1 To try something new - Frocktails Auckland hopefully, but a 'frock' at least. I am planning a Mai Tai dress although curently do not have any fabric - I know, what a problem huh. I love the sound of Frocktails, and it seems the perfect excuse to make a more dressy frock. Thinking about the year ahead, I can see a couple of other opportunities that a new frock to wear would be fun.

2 I am still chasing that elusive goal to get the pieces of fabric down to less that 10. Currently it stands at 14 - hence the note on my sewing room board. I am aiming to keep this front and centre and really try to nail this.

3 Ditto digital patterns; I would like to have 6 or fewer in the sewing folder awaiting that vital next step to become a garment.

Along the way I do want to make up some pattern-and-fabric combos which are lying in wait.  This includes reworking some RTW garments and trying a top with fabric blocking.

So there it is recorded - let's get cracking!

Liesl and Co Classic Shirt

Finally I have made this shirt, twice. Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.

I loved the scale of it, even the number of pattern pieces seemed to take forever to cut out. It is a long time since I have made a tailored shirt and I enjoyed it.

Fabric: 

1 Grey striped linen from the Nippon Sewing District in Tokyo which was a dream to sew. And 2 was a piece brought at a Retro store in Gisborne, It has good drape and possibly is a viscose, in a coral pink colour (which is not in my usualy colour palette).

Size: I made a 12, and added length to the body and sleeves. The result is a more volumous shirt than I was thinking. 

If there is one thing that would improve my results it would be more attention to sizing. As I sew more, I do now look at the finished garment measurements and consider the ease. But the next step would be to baste together the key pieces for an early assessment. I confess I cannot ever imagine making a toile!

These sleeves are too long. I think I would make the cuff width narrower next time as well.

I liked batch sewing. I tried a couple of different collar construction methods although I did not document them and would not be sure which worked better for me, or the fabric so I must make better notes next time.

I am putting a size 10 version of this on my 2023 plans, might even already have some fabric here I could use!

Trigg Shorts

In this my 3rd year of more sewing, I ventured into making shorts for my 20 something son. He is a tall unit and I figured I would give Mum-made-shorts, made to hopefully fit, a try. The sewing would be straight forward, but how would they be received? Well it turned out.

I chose the Trigg shorts pattern, by Perth based Elbe Textiles. Elastic waisted shorts, so I imagine there are loads of pattern options, but there were good reviews, and I liked Lauren's story.

#1 pair was in a grey stretch demin, which felt a little bit heavy as I sewed them. In consultation there was some contrast top stitching.

I did get feedback that the fabric softened up in wear and washing. And a request for deeper pockets please for the phone.

 #2 and #3 are now completed ready for Christmas. This time the fabric feels slightly lightweight but I hope these will work for summer. I have made deeper front pockets, but as I write this it suddenly occurs to me perhaps the request was for deeper back pockets? I guess that I can redo those if needed. Pictured here, still waiting for the cord.

More Elastic Waisted Pants - Sidewinders

 An impromtu week at home with Covid gave me a chance to sew. After nailing a couple of pair of shorts for my son, I sewed up another pair of Sewing Revival Sidewinder pants.

These were in fabric possibly from my local emporium, not sure. A black/grey cotton pinstripe it has a slightly snuggly wrong side which has a bit or warmth. Unforunately altough I have made these pants before, with some fitting modifications, I had not recorded these well on my pattern so cut to the orignal. The result is the pants sit lower than I like. (I have adjusted the pattern now and made careful notes!)

I love the concept of the sidewinding seam on these pants but this fabric does not really highlight this. I like the flat front finish, and the fit is comfortable without being too baggy in the rear. The construction of the band is great and I was pleased with the finish. I added some elasrtic to the back half of the cuff, a detail copied from a friend's RTW pants.

I have previously made this pattern 3 times, altough only one of those pairs is still in my wardrobe - down to poor fabric choice for the other two.

My relationship with elastic waisted pants is a mixed one. I like the finsh and look of fitted trousers, but given I have a pair of clasic pants hanging half finished in my sewing room, I think I am drawn to the elastic waists as these are more fit-friendly. My me-made collection includes Sidewinders and Pallisade pants. My blue sidewinders are the most well worn. The Pallisades I have worn a little less. I prefer the cleaner line of the pockets on the sidewinder to the 'hippy' Pallisade pockets.

Next on the list is a pair of Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks, I will be interested to try this design.