Oh Olivia

There are a number of RTW garments I wear and love, which I often dream about recreating. This is harder than it seems. Mostly I think it comes down to fabric choice. In RTW garment design begins with the fabric. I am beginning to understanding the importance of this concept.

I chose this pattern after an extensive trawl on the Foldline pattern site. I love this site. It is so good to be able to compare different patterns and elements and designers. Olivia is one of two Atelier Jupe patterns I bought, the other is Frida.

The pattern has a handy guide to the pattern pieces and seam allowances. I’ve not seen this before and it was helpful. (I love a good list or table!) The downside with the construction is you leap straight into the front placket. Here I did find the instructions lacking in detail. I read them through a few times then came across a wonderful sew along. Which was truly great, thank you Andrea at 'Beyond the pink door'.

I cut size 40, adding 5cm to the body length, and 8cm to the sleeve.

I sewed the buttons on without button holes. But that stage of the make I knew I could take it on and off.

I like the raglan sleeeves and could use french seams next time, depending on the farbic. The skinny hem works OK.

So, what did not go well. The fabric was gifted from a pile on its way to fabric rescue. Love the colours.  It is very light weight shirting. Too light for this pattern. Which would work beetter with a little more heft and drape. (Drape is my sewing word of the year for 2025, this is another example in my sewing where more drape would give a better result.)

Love the colours and the print. But I have discovered that a large print on a top is too overwhelming. Looking at the smaller pieces like the collar, I don’t think the print works at all well. I have a couple of cream/pale bottoms which will help lift it a little.

So I have learnt a lot. I’ve worn this, and probabaly will wear it again, until I can create a better version. We will see. 

And Olivia? Yes I will make it again, but in a better choice of fabric.

Lela Drawstring Skirts

I thought a drawstring topped skirt would be a useful addition to my wardrobe, and chose this SewDIY.Com pattern to try. I used an old tablecloth which came from my Aunt's house when we were clearing it out some years ago. I love fabrics with story and connections.

The weight was perhaps a little heavier than ideal, but the pattern I absolutely love. The age of the table cloth meant there were a few holes and spots of wear and tear to navigate in the cutting. But that was well and truly off set by the fun of pattern matching. This is not something anyone else will appreciate, but it makes me smile when I wear this skirt.

I made S14, and straightened the lower hem, matching front and back hem length.

I was thinking this would be a casual skirt but have worn it to work a few times. 

I love pattern. Geometric, line and shapes are my favourites. Oh and I like colour. This does present a problem as I need some plain pieces to match with all the pattern!

This winter I was lucky to have a week long trip to Bali, going from mid to low teen temperatures to high twenties. A couple of weeks out I came to thinking a travel skirt would be good. This pattern is so easy it lent itself to a quick make. I made this from my stash, once again fabric with a connection - this linen came from a friend's collection after she died.

This time a monotone brown/grey, perfect for travelling and matched everything else I took with me. I had 1.1m of 140cm wide fabric - perfect match.

Scrap Busting Remy Raglan

I was inspired to make a scrap top after seeing Blogless Anna’s ‘Jigsaw Puzzle’ Remy Raglan.

It was a detour away from my, now long-standing, goal of sewing up fabric I have bought, but I couldn’t resist. Plus in January we are going to be in Melbourne, and anticipate it will be hot, very hot, so loose fitting linen had appeal.

I consulted an expert fabric friend about my options, and narrowed it down to four pieces. Similar weights and something in common in terms of colour and pattern.

I was a little uncertain about how to put these together, and settled on the pattern for the sleeves, mainly as there was not a lot of this. In fact I ended up with a centre seam on one seam. While I was feeling quite pleased with this I realised I had cut two identical sleeves instead of a pair!

Unusually for me, I did not cut the whole garmet out to start. Instead I made the sleeves and the front first before settling on the final choice for the back.

My decision was the blue, I can’t resist mixing colour. But, I slept on it, and, here’s a confession, in the early hours of the morning I thought about Sarai Mitnik’s rule of three. This is a gem of advice from the Seamwork founder, helping sewers  to create and wear garments. What three outfits can you create with the garment you are about to make?

So I pared it back, using the same green brushed cotton for the back as well as the front.

The result is safer, I still like the colour contrast which Anna put together so well. But I hope it will mix and match with more pieces in my wardrobe.

This is a loose fitting top and I trimmed 15mm from the side seams. I made S 12. Turns out the sleeves worked OK with a little trimming too.

Remy Raglan

Finally I have made this infamous pattern! The Sew House Seven Remy Raglan. The fabric I purchased on line from The Fabric Store after seeing a shirt on IG. And it languished in my stash until I made this match.

The pattern is very straightforward. I liked the instruction blog, which lovely clear pictures. I made S12, adding to the length of the body and sleeve (I’m 5’9”). The french seams are a nice finish, and the neck binding and button tab works well.

   

I do love the sleeves, great length and easy to wear and the slim cuff is a nice touch.

 

Turns out I have worn this a lot with a me-made Augustina Boxy Top, and a Simplicity 4036 Skirt which are faithfuls in my work wardrobe. 

2023 Plans, Make Nine and Other Ideas

 

I love seeing everyone's ideas and plans for their sewing year ahead, and as always can't pass up a chance to record my own. 

Row 1: Hudson's Men's Pants (for Secondo son), Morgan Jeans (2 years in the queue so far), Mai Tai Dress.

Row 2: Mapua shorts (reworking a pair of Thai print pants), <10 pieces fabric, sew up this velvet which is donkey's years old.

Row 3: SH7 Free Range Pants (pattern and fabric have been in the queue for some time), Kingfisher top (with stash fabric), Stacker Jacket (in beautiful cord purchased for this project in 2022).

Although the more I sew, I find it harder to nail down a specific plan, and continue to have themes, but enjoy detours as well.

Themes this year are:

1 To try something new - Frocktails Auckland hopefully, but a 'frock' at least. I am planning a Mai Tai dress although curently do not have any fabric - I know, what a problem huh. I love the sound of Frocktails, and it seems the perfect excuse to make a more dressy frock. Thinking about the year ahead, I can see a couple of other opportunities that a new frock to wear would be fun.

2 I am still chasing that elusive goal to get the pieces of fabric down to less that 10. Currently it stands at 14 - hence the note on my sewing room board. I am aiming to keep this front and centre and really try to nail this.

3 Ditto digital patterns; I would like to have 6 or fewer in the sewing folder awaiting that vital next step to become a garment.

Along the way I do want to make up some pattern-and-fabric combos which are lying in wait.  This includes reworking some RTW garments and trying a top with fabric blocking.

So there it is recorded - let's get cracking!

Me Made Wardrobe - A Quest for Fit

I am not sure I had a goal when this recent burst of enthusiam and energy for sewing hit me, but now it is all about fit. 

In recent times I have pondered how to think about my wardrobe. There has been a considered and quiet purging in my life as I re-evaluated my 'stuff'. I started to notice what was supporting me toward the life I want to be living, and what was there just because. I has the overwhelming experience of helping my ageing father move out of the family home of 50 years. Then 5 years ago moving house myself provided a brilliant opportunity for review. The energy of moving stuff, actually handling all those things which really, truly, have neither been used nor seen the light of day for literally years - phew!

When it comes to my wardrobe I am not particularly sentimental about keeping things, and do tend to cull to make way for the new. I have a wooden 'glory' box for my off season clothes, and when I make the transition there are usually items which either don't make it into the box to start, or don't transfer back into the wardrobe next season. 

Recently I prepared a photobook for one of my sons' birthdays. It was curious to see myself wearing clothes I had long since forgotten. In some cases I wondered why I hadn't kept a particular dress or top. But I trust the decision I made at the time. There were also clothes which I know would not appeal to 2022 me.

The concept of a me-made-wardrobe has seemed quaintly ambitious. But as my output increases in a pleasurable way I am emboldended to plan and dream. Increasingly when I put on my clothes I am noticing, and quantifying, those fit issues here and there. That lovely shirt with the tie sleeve trims which do not do up. Those trousers which are long enough but too full in the butt. Those sleeves which are too short. 

As these two ideas, sewing more and becoming cognisant of how clothes fit me, come together I see myself planning to make garments I want wear. This includes better versions of those I already have. And in some cases fixing some of the fit issues with existing garments, me made or not. 

Recently I adjusted a cuff top. This was a gift from a sewing friend, and I enjoyed wearing it, liking both the style and the fabric choice. But it was a little large. Here are the 'before' pictures.

Oh the fun of making adjustments, which were a pleasure with this fabric. And also working on someone else's hand sewn garment revealed insights to their process. There is the confidence needed to take up scissors, and make the cut. Overall though I am happy with the result. Maybe to an untrained eye not much has changed. But for the wearer the comfort is massively improved. Here are the results.

In terms of style, well I think and hope that will always be dynamic. While the 2022 plans include fluid tops and some fitting bottoms, I'm open to heading in a different direction beyond that.

Claire

Another Augustina (2022)

 I was quite taken with my first go at this pattern, re-purposing a garment into a top which was so handy. Then spring came and the temperatures warmed up, and a summer version seemed like a smart plan.

I found a small piece of cotton flax honeycomb, the bolt end, at Spotlight - perfect. The texture is nice to touch, the weight lends itself to adding a layer without adding bulk and I like the interest of the woven design.

If I judge a garment’s success by the number of wears, this one is a winner. Teamed here with a me made silk top (top) and a me made cotton skirt (bottom).

2021 Makes versus Plans!

 At the start of this year I wanted to make 12 things. The idea was mainly clothes to wear, but also a bag. I wanted to reduce the fabric in my cupboard. Although I don't have a huge stash, I was somewhat overwhelmed by having material I had previously bought with big plans, only to have it sit in a box in my cupboard for, quite literally, years in some cases.

We have lived in our house for 5 years, and during this time there has been a gradual paring down of, well, 'stuff'. Part of living intentionally, wanting things to enhance my life, not engulf it. It has not been a dramatic Swedish Death Cleanse but a reflective process applied when energy permits.

So here was my plan.

So I executed 7 of these. The results were mixed.

(top row)

1 The Kingfisher top - still to get there. I have some silk but need ribbing. Then found I had a lot of ribbing but not quite the right solour. Then I found I had some scraps which might work, still might too - check in with me next year!

2 Ditto above for the Kobe top - so glad I bought both these patterns though because I am set (LOL)!!

3 Gingham checked shirt is as photographed. I am delighted with this. It is from a Japanese magazine purchased in Tokyo, Nippon Sewing district. On a rather hot 2019 day I lugged my purchases around; These included this red checked gingham and the 3 magazines I had bought and a lot of other fabric too. I have sewn up 4 pieces of fabric from that trip. I have worn this shirt a bit, so that feels good. I am a little wary of Japanese pattern sizing, but this did work. I may make it again. I think next time possibly a more drape in the fabric choice would be good.

4 The Kimono Top I have made before, including sorting some sizing issues. My first one was too large on the neckline which I adjusted mid-make. This orange one was made from a vintage table cloth. I confess I am not sure how wearable it is, but this summer will tell.

(row 2)

5 New Look 8536. This coat I have half cut out - then hit a snag, well I made a mistake. So I bundled it up and will look at it again one day. Given the fabric was some which I have had for at least 5 years, it will keep. 

6 Sewing Revival Snug Pants, I made in a striped cotton knit. These are my 2nd pair. I often live all day in my merino pair. Always need to remember to allow for a full calf adjustment, even in knit! I miss pockets in this pattern.

7 Capsule Trousers. I have a 3/4 made pair of trousers from the Capsule Wardrobe book. I am not sure I was thinking at all when I embarked on these, and they do need finishing. If I listen to Heather Lou's (Closet Core Patterns) pep talk I will get to the end and not focus on the fitting issues. My plan is to do an online course with Heather Lou for the next fitted pants make. So these did not make it over the line this year but they are not completely abandoned.

8 Friday Pattern Company V Neck Tee Shirt. I made two V-neck tee shirts, with this free pattern. In two different sizes. I was planning these would be for general in the garden and possibly tramping. The merino knit I used was way too fine. One shirt I managed a lovely finish on neckline, the other not so much. Chalk it up to learning, and for me buying fabric online does not produce the best outcomes.

(bottom row)

9 My Heron Shirt I am delighted with.

10 Morgan jeans pattern and online course purchased, fabric at the ready - this is getting bumped to 2022! Sewing jeans seems to be a 'big' project, but as this year has progressed and I have regularly spent more time sewing (13 weeks of lockdown helped) this has opened up the possibility of 'larger' projects.

11 The Sewing Revival Nikau dress was a success in Japanese linen. I am going to review the fit after reading a blog by Lucy and seeing how she made hers a little straighter. But it is in my wardrobe and in use, and who am I kidding that I will actually alter it!

12 Sidewinder Pants. I have a mixed relationship with the Sewing Revival Sidewinder Pants. I think largely my results have been due to fabric choices - put simply not enough drape, which is spelled out very clearly in the pattern instructions too I might add. I have already made 2 pairs, and neither worked exceptionally well. Then I tried these in a cotton, (I think) from The Fabric Store. I added the cuff after a couple of wears, but there is not enough drape and the bottom can look a bit romper like. The fabric tends to bag a bit after a wear, which means more washing and ironing than is my natural inclination. I am not giving up on this pattern though, I just need to select my fabric more carefully.

So there's the wrap! Time to look forward to the journey into 2022 and the makes it may contain . . . 

Claire

Cheyenne Tunic in Rayon

 This is a garment which is inspired by a much worn, now retired due to tatty condition, favourite shirt. This is Hey June Cheyenne Tunic. 

Fabric

I was looking for a rayon or viscose, ideally in a geometric print, but I wanted to feel and purchase the fabric in store. And as I only went to one store that narrowed the options. The weight, drape and temperature of this fabric is really really lovely to wear. I am slightly suspicious of how it will wear with a few pin marks needing gentle pressing after construction. That said I did unpick a bit on the collar, and it has pressed up well.

The make:

After sewing a succession of very simple garments there was  a bit of hesitation on the scale of this shirt, and all the many pattern pieces. But once I began I enjoyed the process. I started with some of the smaller pieces, sewing the pockets and the sleeve tabs first, procrastinating and also getting a feel for the fabric before I tackled the front shaped half placket. This is evidence of smarter operating - why do so many patterns have you start on the centre front with the first seam.

The fit was fine, apart from adding 5cm to the body length. The sleeve length was OK but I must say once finished I am tempted to make them simpler next time. I think I will mainly wear them 3/4 length rolled up, so the work of the cuff and placket seem unecessary.

I found the directions of the front placket slightly tricky and I am still not sure of the final result. I see there is a sew along so I will research this before I sew this up again - which I plan to do 2022, maybe in a winter weight . . .

Claire

Sewing Self Care - Comfy Nightwear x 3

Much has been written about self care, and sewing, and the combination. But just for the record I agree.

This is a the True Bias Lodo Dress pattern. The idea was taken from Love, Lucy who wrote about using this pattern for nighties. (She has also documented a make that was inspired by seeing a fellow sewist's results. So I figure it might be OK to admit this is where the idea came from.) As a latecomer to the online sewing community and indie patterns, I do rather like having this connection with the pattern designer.

The striped fabric was from The Fabric Store and was an online purchase I made in a flurry in 2020. I was planning to make a pair of pants and bought 2 pieces of striped cotton knit. I have made one pair into The Sewing Revival Snug Pant. It was lighter weight than this, and on reflection this knit is 'winter' weight.

This is S14, it is very comfortable in bed! I also loved that little bit of extra length, slightly more cosy.

My first True Bias Pattern. It is a very simple design and the woven facings will no doubt help this garment throught the rigours of night wear and a fast rotation through the washing machine.

I am enjoying the chance to pivot, see an idea, grab some fabric and sew. It is also nice to be able to fill a wardrobe gap with such ease - I ditched a couple of nighties recently and the remainder on rotation are also looking, frankly, a bit shabby.

On a roll I have made 2 more Lodo nighties, both in S12. One is a cotton knit, the other a rayon, both from Spotlight. I love the feel of the rayon knit to sleep in and it is slightly cooler than the cotton. So much fun to sew, and fun prints I like. 

It is tempting to plan to replenish my supplies. Especially after such a productive time of Lockdown Sewing.  As I began to write this we were going to be able to actually visit fabric stores, in person, after 3 months of lockdown restrictions. I always look forward to some purposeful browsing with my list of want-to-makes, to feel the weight touch and drape of some options. But I rather hope too that I will be sufficently disciplined. My aim is to be sewing fabric I am still in the first flush of love with.  To have some clear space to make connections, lean enough stock to have creative ideas. To be considerate towards future me, that I might be able to buy material in the future which reflects sewing I want to do then - and right now I do not know what that may be.

Claire

December 2021