Palisade Pants

Not one pair of Palisades, but two.

The first in a linen from the Fabric Store. Loved the feel of this and I really did think it had some drape. 

I sewed S14 based on my hip measurements. I added 5cm to the leg length. Then, for the first time I actually basted these up and tried them on. 

It was tricky to get the top to stay cinched in to evaluate the fit. Length and crotch seemed fine, but they were tight on the calf. How did I forget about my full calves! The pattern has a 1cm seam allowance, so I skinnied that up on the lower leg, and the result was fine. I sewed on until I needed to stop and wait for the elastic I ordered online.

I was doing this project during a Covid-19 Lockdown, so had time to kill while I waited for the leastic to show up. I wanted to keep sewing, hence the second pair. This is a lighter weight fabric from my stash, which I acquired at a fabric swap in Matakana earlier this year. I honestly just went to look, not come home with anything, but you know how it goes. This was labeled 150cm x 150cm, in a brown colour with a bit of a sheen, and also a small degreee of stretch.

For the second pair it was a chance to make a full calf adjustment to the pattern plus I added a little onto the side panel back seam for the lower leg, just to be safe. The restul is good on the lower leg.

It was interesting to baste the pattern up - an opportunity to use some random thread. It required me to abandon the assembly order described in the instructions - actually I did find this hard! It turns out I am a rule follower, if there is a prescribed order then I like to do that.

Fitting evaluation on the second pair was the leg width was good - no clinging to my calves, but the bottom felt a little snug. Again hard to tell when trying to tuck the raw edge into a sash belt, but enough to make me let out the seams by a little.

I changed the construction a little, and attached the entire band then inserted the elastic. I find it very hard to get elastic right, having learned from experience it is useful to safety pin the elstic in at the proposed length, then wear the pants around for an hour to try it out. Usually I make it shorter/tighter as a result. I was pretty sure that inserting the elastic into the back band, as per the pattern instructions, would mean unpicking and tweaking. I also reduced the width of the band, to 4cm finished - liked the result. 

Results:

The linen pair are comfortable to wear and I am happy with how they hang. Possibly slightly long but that is a good probelm for me. A reminder to keep them up on the waist, and I made sure the elastic was reasonably firm. I wished afterwards that I had lined the pockets with a lighter weight cotton. I trimmed carefully before finishing the front and back centre leg seams, to try to reduce the bulky edges of the pockets.

For the pockets I have made both pairs with only one diagonal pocket. It just didn't make sense to add more fabric at the hip. I am pleased with the line on this.

The flat front band I like - similar to The Sewing Revival Sidewinder pants. I wish I could work out how to make the elasticated portion of the band look less home made?

I liked the finish on the fabric on the second pair. The fit is snug, and I do hope the construction is all sound.

Exciting to have some bottom halves completed. I'm undecided about the side pockets. I am pretty sure these will never be used, and I am not inclined to repeat this pattern at this stage. Instead I am looking forward to trying the Free Range slacks, with pockets front and back pockets and a smooth side panel - watch this space.

Claire