2023 Plans, Make Nine and Other Ideas

 

I love seeing everyone's ideas and plans for their sewing year ahead, and as always can't pass up a chance to record my own. 

Row 1: Hudson's Men's Pants (for Secondo son), Morgan Jeans (2 years in the queue so far), Mai Tai Dress.

Row 2: Mapua shorts (reworking a pair of Thai print pants), <10 pieces fabric, sew up this velvet which is donkey's years old.

Row 3: SH7 Free Range Pants (pattern and fabric have been in the queue for some time), Kingfisher top (with stash fabric), Stacker Jacket (in beautiful cord purchased for this project in 2022).

Although the more I sew, I find it harder to nail down a specific plan, and continue to have themes, but enjoy detours as well.

Themes this year are:

1 To try something new - Frocktails Auckland hopefully, but a 'frock' at least. I am planning a Mai Tai dress although curently do not have any fabric - I know, what a problem huh. I love the sound of Frocktails, and it seems the perfect excuse to make a more dressy frock. Thinking about the year ahead, I can see a couple of other opportunities that a new frock to wear would be fun.

2 I am still chasing that elusive goal to get the pieces of fabric down to less that 10. Currently it stands at 14 - hence the note on my sewing room board. I am aiming to keep this front and centre and really try to nail this.

3 Ditto digital patterns; I would like to have 6 or fewer in the sewing folder awaiting that vital next step to become a garment.

Along the way I do want to make up some pattern-and-fabric combos which are lying in wait.  This includes reworking some RTW garments and trying a top with fabric blocking.

So there it is recorded - let's get cracking!

Heron Top in Silk Georgette

It has been a while since I was here in this blog space, but some recent output at the sewing machine, along with reading some wonderful sharing of other sewists has led me back.

I have just finished this Heron Shirt in silk georgette from The Fabric Store.

I have two RTW shirts in similar styles, both of which don't quite work for a variety of reasons. The rust peasant style is a great colour and size, but short sleeves and slightly tight elastic cuffs are annoying - I am 5'9" and usually want more length in the body and sleeves. Plus the polyester fabric is very clingy. 

I like this silk top, but have sewn up the centre front slightly, and also find these sleeves short.

I bought this georgette fabric online, on an impulse, and since then it has sat in the cupboard scaring me. Finally I took the plunge.

First step was the treat the fabric with gelatine. This worked well to stabilise it. Something to consider though when looking at the fit toward the end of sewing, as the shoulders sat up slightly. Then once I washed the gelatine out it draped much better.

I listened to the Love 2 Sew episode on sewing delicate fabrics as I began this project, and the advice was very useful, especially to be patient.

I made a size 12 (NZ/AU/UK) adding 5cm to the body length and the sleeve based on my measurements. Turns out I didn't I need to do this so in the end shortened the sleeves only once they were completely finished. And shortened the body too but fortunately before I had finished the hem. 

As a Kiwi sewist I am so happy to be making a Made in NZ pattern. I love the style and feel of most of the Sewing Revival range and I have made the Nikau and Fernbird dresses, as well as Snug and Sidewinder pants. 

The simplicity of the pattern - only 3 pieces, front, back & sleeve - was pleasing. I think I will make this again, possibly in a weightier fabric with more drape. Next time though I will not start with the centre front seam. Instead I will dive further in and sew the sleeves and back first to warm up. I ended up unhappy with the way the centre seam was sitting so unpicked the seam and the hemmed edges - stich by stitch - and redid it. Happier with the result.

I will also make a slightly more generous channels for the elastic/ tie at the neck edge - gave myself conniptions pulling the tie through my delicate fabric on this one.

Reflecting on my process with this garment, I was sewing a delicate fabric which I don't have a lot of experience with. As a rule I don't make toilles, preferring to measure the pattern pieces, myself, and other similar garments I already own. But this is not unfalliable. From here on I have promised myself to try things on earlier and more often in my sewing process. I smile to see my approach, follow instructions through to the end, then out the garment on and wear. For this pattern it is really hard to gadge the fit and sizing until the neck is complete. So a sensible path would be to apply my experience and learning to making another Heron. 

Claire