Me Made Wardrobe - A Quest for Fit

I am not sure I had a goal when this recent burst of enthusiam and energy for sewing hit me, but now it is all about fit. 

In recent times I have pondered how to think about my wardrobe. There has been a considered and quiet purging in my life as I re-evaluated my 'stuff'. I started to notice what was supporting me toward the life I want to be living, and what was there just because. I has the overwhelming experience of helping my ageing father move out of the family home of 50 years. Then 5 years ago moving house myself provided a brilliant opportunity for review. The energy of moving stuff, actually handling all those things which really, truly, have neither been used nor seen the light of day for literally years - phew!

When it comes to my wardrobe I am not particularly sentimental about keeping things, and do tend to cull to make way for the new. I have a wooden 'glory' box for my off season clothes, and when I make the transition there are usually items which either don't make it into the box to start, or don't transfer back into the wardrobe next season. 

Recently I prepared a photobook for one of my sons' birthdays. It was curious to see myself wearing clothes I had long since forgotten. In some cases I wondered why I hadn't kept a particular dress or top. But I trust the decision I made at the time. There were also clothes which I know would not appeal to 2022 me.

The concept of a me-made-wardrobe has seemed quaintly ambitious. But as my output increases in a pleasurable way I am emboldended to plan and dream. Increasingly when I put on my clothes I am noticing, and quantifying, those fit issues here and there. That lovely shirt with the tie sleeve trims which do not do up. Those trousers which are long enough but too full in the butt. Those sleeves which are too short. 

As these two ideas, sewing more and becoming cognisant of how clothes fit me, come together I see myself planning to make garments I want wear. This includes better versions of those I already have. And in some cases fixing some of the fit issues with existing garments, me made or not. 

Recently I adjusted a cuff top. This was a gift from a sewing friend, and I enjoyed wearing it, liking both the style and the fabric choice. But it was a little large. Here are the 'before' pictures.

Oh the fun of making adjustments, which were a pleasure with this fabric. And also working on someone else's hand sewn garment revealed insights to their process. There is the confidence needed to take up scissors, and make the cut. Overall though I am happy with the result. Maybe to an untrained eye not much has changed. But for the wearer the comfort is massively improved. Here are the results.

In terms of style, well I think and hope that will always be dynamic. While the 2022 plans include fluid tops and some fitting bottoms, I'm open to heading in a different direction beyond that.

Claire

A Pouf of Fun

In the 11th week of covid lockdown restrictions, routines for self care have evolved. My wonderful sewing room, refered to as Tairawhiti after my home whenua, has been a blessing. The main risk here is I may actually sew up all my 'stash'!

But the extra time in this space means I can fly off on tangents, and follow an idea through, with materials on hand, just like that. 

The Closet Core pouf came about as I finished making a pinafore. When I photographed it and looked at all my other recent makes, everything seemed to be in quite dull colours. The perfect antidote to that restrained wardrobe palate is some colourful mix and match!

The fabrics here were a collection of leftovers from various home furnishing projects, cushions in particular. Plus random saved pieces; the cut off legs from husband's shortened cargo pants, and a treasured linen tea towel discovered in an op shop long ago and carefully stowed - that is the lovely birds, enough for two pieces on the top, and one side panel.

Fun and fast construction. Challenging to line up the points. An opportunity to use my newest sewing room tool - a piece of dowel on the pressing table.

The end result is not yet stuffed with fabric scraps - I don't have enough! Instead old towels and assorted random linen do the trick for now, giving it a decidedly lumpy shape. Still works a treat.

Claire 

Agustina Boxy Top Miracle

 As I spend more time immersed in the online sewing community I am delighted to find solutions to my wardrobe conundrums. This top is one such example.

Short version. I have re-worked a me-made top, plus the saved left over fabric, with this free Agustina Boxy Top pattern from the Fabrics-Store.com. Perfect extra layer, with wide armholes to accommodate all types of sleeves, blousy and fitted. Yet not too long or bulky so I can still add a jacket for my walk to work. The neckline is high enough to give structure, scooped enough to allow some detail to show through. The length is designed to likewise allow a little pop of interest.

And, if you are interested, here is the long version. 

(Long verions like this alway make me think of Melanie Griffith's character in the lift in the 1988 movie Working Girl. Tess McGill had that lift ride to explain the genesis of her merger idea. The story of course proves that it was her creative mind which hatched the idea, not her boss (played by Sigourney Weaver) who had shamelessly stolen it!)

Since picking up more sewing I have been thinking about my wardrobe. I was captivated by Karen Templer's sharing of her capsule wardrobe photos and plans, but also by her vests. These seemed a perfect way to extend and mix and match, plus the practical additional warmth of an extra layer. Only they are all knitted, and I am still trying to finish a pair of socks which have been on the needles for about 2 years. 

I tried to find a sewing pattern. This including drafting the Amara vest pattern. But the hurdle there was fabric. Reviews have shown this sewn in heavier or bulkier looking fabric than appealed to me.

My new plan was to knit a Holiday Slipover - although aware this was no small undertaking, and definitely on the long term plan list! I like the large armholes which will accommodate all manner of sleeves.

Then I saw Instagram posts by Teresa Hardy @desewtropia of this Agustine Top - doing everything I wished for. Her fabric selection was not bulky but added interest.

My fabric here is another story. Some decades ago I purchased fabric at Cushla's in Devonport. I acquired a loyalty card, and qualified for some amount off a future purchase. Gorgeoous shop I recall, but completely out of the way for me. A special trip was needed and I bought this fine knitted textured fabric. No plans at that time and limited experience of sewing knit fabric. Result - into the stash for storage for literally years. It has rather haunted me so I found a wrap pattern in a Japanese magazine I had, and deliberately did not dwell on it, just cut it up and sewed it. I wore it a few times. It did add warmth, but I was never happy with the back, a drape turned to a sag. It reminded me of a similarly unsuccessful Paper Cut circle top which I no longer have. On a 'shrug' the armholes have to be small enough to grip and keep the garmet on, while the round opening is prone to slipping off the shoulder.

Construction for this top did involve first cutting a large, then once basted and tried on, taking it back to a size M. It is as the name suggests, a boxy top. Depending on the stretch of future fabric I might take it in a little more.

It was exciting to cut it up and start again. Albeit with some zero waste challenges to fit the top out. I am pleased with the result and think it will be handy. And possibly not the last one of these I make.

Claire