2021 Makes versus Plans!

 At the start of this year I wanted to make 12 things. The idea was mainly clothes to wear, but also a bag. I wanted to reduce the fabric in my cupboard. Although I don't have a huge stash, I was somewhat overwhelmed by having material I had previously bought with big plans, only to have it sit in a box in my cupboard for, quite literally, years in some cases.

We have lived in our house for 5 years, and during this time there has been a gradual paring down of, well, 'stuff'. Part of living intentionally, wanting things to enhance my life, not engulf it. It has not been a dramatic Swedish Death Cleanse but a reflective process applied when energy permits.

So here was my plan.

So I executed 7 of these. The results were mixed.

(top row)

1 The Kingfisher top - still to get there. I have some silk but need ribbing. Then found I had a lot of ribbing but not quite the right solour. Then I found I had some scraps which might work, still might too - check in with me next year!

2 Ditto above for the Kobe top - so glad I bought both these patterns though because I am set (LOL)!!

3 Gingham checked shirt is as photographed. I am delighted with this. It is from a Japanese magazine purchased in Tokyo, Nippon Sewing district. On a rather hot 2019 day I lugged my purchases around; These included this red checked gingham and the 3 magazines I had bought and a lot of other fabric too. I have sewn up 4 pieces of fabric from that trip. I have worn this shirt a bit, so that feels good. I am a little wary of Japanese pattern sizing, but this did work. I may make it again. I think next time possibly a more drape in the fabric choice would be good.

4 The Kimono Top I have made before, including sorting some sizing issues. My first one was too large on the neckline which I adjusted mid-make. This orange one was made from a vintage table cloth. I confess I am not sure how wearable it is, but this summer will tell.

(row 2)

5 New Look 8536. This coat I have half cut out - then hit a snag, well I made a mistake. So I bundled it up and will look at it again one day. Given the fabric was some which I have had for at least 5 years, it will keep. 

6 Sewing Revival Snug Pants, I made in a striped cotton knit. These are my 2nd pair. I often live all day in my merino pair. Always need to remember to allow for a full calf adjustment, even in knit! I miss pockets in this pattern.

7 Capsule Trousers. I have a 3/4 made pair of trousers from the Capsule Wardrobe book. I am not sure I was thinking at all when I embarked on these, and they do need finishing. If I listen to Heather Lou's (Closet Core Patterns) pep talk I will get to the end and not focus on the fitting issues. My plan is to do an online course with Heather Lou for the next fitted pants make. So these did not make it over the line this year but they are not completely abandoned.

8 Friday Pattern Company V Neck Tee Shirt. I made two V-neck tee shirts, with this free pattern. In two different sizes. I was planning these would be for general in the garden and possibly tramping. The merino knit I used was way too fine. One shirt I managed a lovely finish on neckline, the other not so much. Chalk it up to learning, and for me buying fabric online does not produce the best outcomes.

(bottom row)

9 My Heron Shirt I am delighted with.

10 Morgan jeans pattern and online course purchased, fabric at the ready - this is getting bumped to 2022! Sewing jeans seems to be a 'big' project, but as this year has progressed and I have regularly spent more time sewing (13 weeks of lockdown helped) this has opened up the possibility of 'larger' projects.

11 The Sewing Revival Nikau dress was a success in Japanese linen. I am going to review the fit after reading a blog by Lucy and seeing how she made hers a little straighter. But it is in my wardrobe and in use, and who am I kidding that I will actually alter it!

12 Sidewinder Pants. I have a mixed relationship with the Sewing Revival Sidewinder Pants. I think largely my results have been due to fabric choices - put simply not enough drape, which is spelled out very clearly in the pattern instructions too I might add. I have already made 2 pairs, and neither worked exceptionally well. Then I tried these in a cotton, (I think) from The Fabric Store. I added the cuff after a couple of wears, but there is not enough drape and the bottom can look a bit romper like. The fabric tends to bag a bit after a wear, which means more washing and ironing than is my natural inclination. I am not giving up on this pattern though, I just need to select my fabric more carefully.

So there's the wrap! Time to look forward to the journey into 2022 and the makes it may contain . . . 

Claire

Nikau Dress by Sewing Revival

 This is another pattern by Kiwi designer Sewing Revival. Easy to sew, and also easy to wear.

I made size M and added to 5cm the length - usually necessary as I am 5'9" (at least I was, and still identify with this height!).

The fabric was purchased in Tokyo 2019, a light weight linen. This is a simple dress. There were two belt version, one wider but I went for the narrow one. I think the wider would be more of a feature. On the reverse of my belt I used another Japanese linen for a little twist of contrast.

The instructions and construction are fairly straight forward. Will I make it again? Not sure. The neckline is not a favourite, but I realise now I could hack this too, although to what I am not sure. I would recommend this pattern though for a simple summer make.

(Excuse the lock-down hair, 4 months since last haircut, 9 days to go til hairdresser appointment!)

Claire 

2021

Heron Top in Silk Georgette

It has been a while since I was here in this blog space, but some recent output at the sewing machine, along with reading some wonderful sharing of other sewists has led me back.

I have just finished this Heron Shirt in silk georgette from The Fabric Store.

I have two RTW shirts in similar styles, both of which don't quite work for a variety of reasons. The rust peasant style is a great colour and size, but short sleeves and slightly tight elastic cuffs are annoying - I am 5'9" and usually want more length in the body and sleeves. Plus the polyester fabric is very clingy. 

I like this silk top, but have sewn up the centre front slightly, and also find these sleeves short.

I bought this georgette fabric online, on an impulse, and since then it has sat in the cupboard scaring me. Finally I took the plunge.

First step was the treat the fabric with gelatine. This worked well to stabilise it. Something to consider though when looking at the fit toward the end of sewing, as the shoulders sat up slightly. Then once I washed the gelatine out it draped much better.

I listened to the Love 2 Sew episode on sewing delicate fabrics as I began this project, and the advice was very useful, especially to be patient.

I made a size 12 (NZ/AU/UK) adding 5cm to the body length and the sleeve based on my measurements. Turns out I didn't I need to do this so in the end shortened the sleeves only once they were completely finished. And shortened the body too but fortunately before I had finished the hem. 

As a Kiwi sewist I am so happy to be making a Made in NZ pattern. I love the style and feel of most of the Sewing Revival range and I have made the Nikau and Fernbird dresses, as well as Snug and Sidewinder pants. 

The simplicity of the pattern - only 3 pieces, front, back & sleeve - was pleasing. I think I will make this again, possibly in a weightier fabric with more drape. Next time though I will not start with the centre front seam. Instead I will dive further in and sew the sleeves and back first to warm up. I ended up unhappy with the way the centre seam was sitting so unpicked the seam and the hemmed edges - stich by stitch - and redid it. Happier with the result.

I will also make a slightly more generous channels for the elastic/ tie at the neck edge - gave myself conniptions pulling the tie through my delicate fabric on this one.

Reflecting on my process with this garment, I was sewing a delicate fabric which I don't have a lot of experience with. As a rule I don't make toilles, preferring to measure the pattern pieces, myself, and other similar garments I already own. But this is not unfalliable. From here on I have promised myself to try things on earlier and more often in my sewing process. I smile to see my approach, follow instructions through to the end, then out the garment on and wear. For this pattern it is really hard to gadge the fit and sizing until the neck is complete. So a sensible path would be to apply my experience and learning to making another Heron. 

Claire