Showing posts with label sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing. Show all posts

Saturday, April 16, 2022

Another Augustina (2022)

 I was quite taken with my first go at this pattern, re-purposing a garment into a top which was so handy. Then spring came and the temperatures warmed up, and a summer version seemed like a smart plan.

I found a small piece of cotton flax honeycomb, the bolt end, at Spotlight - perfect. The texture is nice to touch, the weight lends itself to adding a layer without adding bulk and I like the interest of the woven design.

If I judge a garment’s success by the number of wears, this one is a winner. Teamed here with a me made silk top (top) and a me made cotton skirt (bottom).






Wednesday, December 29, 2021

Legacy

Somewhere, on Instagram, or a sewing blog, or podcast there was mention of using up those ends of thread spools for basting. It was a small light bulb moment as I have a pile of those from my Mum.


There is something oddly pleasing about finishing these small tail ends. It appeals to my sense of thrift, as well as my ongoing desire to have less 'stuff'. Or more accurately to have things in my life which enhance it rather than weigh me down.

This trip into the drawer of assorted left over threads is also an opportunity to reflect on my mother's making life, and how she has influenced my making life - legacy.

Born just at the start of WWII my mother grew up in a small farming villlage, Ormond, just out of Gisborne in provincial New Zealand. Thrift was creative but it was also about getting by; nothing was wasted, much was kept for some future use or re-use.

Gran, my maternal grandmother was not a sewer although I recall Mum told me that she did knit socks and could turn a heel. There was  treadle Singer dewing machine in that house and I understand my mother and her sisters all sewed, by necessity I think. According to Mum one sister's work was carefully and very thoroughtly constructed, whilst the other sister left the house wearing dresses which, it could be argued, were unfinished. However this is only one view, and that Aunt has reassured me that her clothes never fell apart. (That sort of logic would appeal to the generation of young men in my house - why expend any more effort than is absolutely essential, but that is another story.)

My mother was a prolific maker across many fields. Sewer of clothes, for herself, my father my brother and me, of soft furnishings, table linen, countless pot mits and aprons, and quilts. A knitter of jerseys, hats and scarves. In the kitchen a preserver and chutney relish and jam maker. In the garden she was a sometime help mate in the vegetable garden, which was mainly my father's domain, but shared duties in the orchard pruning and harvesting. She also kept a large well maintained garden full of plants collected or grown from cuttings. Her home making skills extended to interior renovations, wall-papering and painting and, as often recalled by my father, she polyurethaned the entire corktile floor. She had her own Estwing woman's hammer, which I have inherited. She restored countless pieces of furniture, rescued from back rooms and sheds of her childhood home, as well as recovered from skip bins or discovered at the second hand mart. She also tried her hand at many a making trend, from macrame plant hangers, and basket making.

In the 2020 Auckland Writer's Festival Paula Morrison made a comment about her migrant English mother being slightly exasperated as the talents of the New Zealand housewife in the 1960's. 'They made everything'.  

I feel immensely grateful for my mother's model of a 'making life'. This also included making friendships which I can relate to. Those people who like to create are a vital part of growing and learning. I have special friends I have made at sewing classes, or with our hands in finger paint as Playcentre mums. These friendship foster my own creative pursuits, as well as spawning opportunities to try new ideas. Not surprisingly there are often many similarities we share about growing up with sewing and making mothers. I recall the delight in reminiscing with a friend about the novel containers our mothers made in the late 1970's. The bases were 2 litre icecream containers, holes punched around the upper rim, and a drawerstring bag attached, most likely in orange paisely or floral patterned fabric. In our house these were our 'camping toilet bags', in hers they were 'wet tog bags'.

Thinking back I am in awe of all the clothes she sewed for me, and my dolls. Wedding dress for my bride doll, dancing outfits, dresses, togs, the list goes on and on. If she were here now I would like to reflect on this huge body of work. 

I still have my Vogue Individualist  Claude Montana 1492 pattern, slightly tattered through much use, as a reminder of all those clothes. I remember the skirt, in a navy blue linen-like, the shirt, one in a deep teal but these were others, and the pants, made multiple times.


Although my parents never threw things away, which led to a mammoth job when I was clearing out their home of 50 years, Mum did in fact use a lot of these saved 'resources'. Thinking in particular about her sewing this would now be termed stash busting. Seems trendy these days but for my Mum this was a  habit of lifelong resourcefulness. Things were thoughtfully saved and stored. Scraps of fabric re-appears as pocket linings. And the thread, at the end of a project - the bobbin thread was carefully wound back onto the spool for use at a later date.

So there is a nice sense of connection as I use up these saved threads.

Claire, October 2021



Sewing Self Care - Comfy Nightwear x 3

Much has been written about self care, and sewing, and the combination. But just for the record I agree.



This is a the True Bias Lodo Dress pattern. The idea was taken from Love, Lucy who wrote about using this pattern for nighties. (She has also documented a make that was inspired by seeing a fellow sewist's results. So I figure it might be OK to admit this is where the idea came from.) As a latecomer to the online sewing community and indie patterns, I do rather like having this connection with the pattern designer.

The striped fabric was from The Fabric Store and was an online purchase I made in a flurry in 2020. I was planning to make a pair of pants and bought 2 pieces of striped cotton knit. I have made one pair into The Sewing Revival Snug Pant. It was lighter weight than this, and on reflection this knit is 'winter' weight.

This is S14, it is very comfortable in bed! I also loved that little bit of extra length, slightly more cosy.

My first True Bias Pattern. It is a very simple design and the woven facings will no doubt help this garment throught the rigours of night wear and a fast rotation through the washing machine.


I am enjoying the chance to pivot, see an idea, grab some fabric and sew. It is also nice to be able to fill a wardrobe gap with such ease - I ditched a couple of nighties recently and the remainder on rotation are also looking, frankly, a bit shabby.

On a roll I have made 2 more Lodo nighties, both in S12. One is a cotton knit, the other a rayon, both from Spotlight. I love the feel of the rayon knit to sleep in and it is slightly cooler than the cotton. So much fun to sew, and fun prints I like. 

It is tempting to plan to replenish my supplies. Especially after such a productive time of Lockdown Sewing.  As I began to write this we were going to be able to actually visit fabric stores, in person, after 3 months of lockdown restrictions. I always look forward to some purposeful browsing with my list of want-to-makes, to feel the weight touch and drape of some options. But I rather hope too that I will be sufficently disciplined. My aim is to be sewing fabric I am still in the first flush of love with.  To have some clear space to make connections, lean enough stock to have creative ideas. To be considerate towards future me, that I might be able to buy material in the future which reflects sewing I want to do then - and right now I do not know what that may be.

Claire

December 2021

Thursday, October 7, 2021

The Maker's Atelier Origami Top

 It has been a bit of a journey with this top. I suspect I am going to get a fair amount of wear out of it - easy to team with pants and skirts, and in green, a colour I love to wear. But putting it together was an experience.


The Fabric: This is a fine jersey knit which was in my stash. It is green, and I have no idea where it came from. Let me tell you I don't have a huge stash after a bit of a push to make things up, plus a few year's back taking a load of fabric to release at a Fabric-a-brac event in Auckland. So I would have thought nothing in there was older than 5 years - yet this is still a mystery.

The fine springy nature of this fabric scared me. 

The Pattern: The Maker's Atelier aesthetic is beautiful and the pieces all look like things which would be very comfortable to wear, and look great. 

In theory this pattern was simple, three pieces. The instructions, I thought, were scant and also lacked options to get a nice finish. They suggest leaving the neck edge and hem raw. Which I find a little bit odd. Yet there is detail about how to sew on the label - which I did not get as I ordered a digital pattern.

I had to look up the sizing on the website, which was a bit of a pain, and there were no finished measurements anywhere to be found.

I have made, and written about, the Tie Front Blouse from The Essential Collection book, so it should not have been a surprise to find the size 14 I made was very roomy, in fact tent like, in the body. And the sleeves were, well, skinny. Here it is at that point.



I should have basted the pattern up! But I was so keen to tackle the scary stitching on my overlocker, and insert the clear elastic to stabilise the shoulders, I just launched straight in. Lesson learned. So I carefully cut off all the seams, except the sleeve seam. Then I trimmed the front and back pieces, then basted, then sewed it up - phew!

I am happy with the result. I hand stitched the neck edge and lower hem. It took a while but it was quite easy to get a nice finish. For the sleeves I used the zig zag on my regular sewing machine (Bernina Nova circa 1982). The centre front is going to pop out slightly, which lends it to being tucked in.



Interestingly it did not occur to me to search out reviews or write ups for this top until I was about to start sewing. I found two reviews, neither were fans. 

I had fancied the Drawstring-neck top and the Tie Detail top, also by this designer. And I surprise myself at my willingness to overlook these experiences and be thinking they could still work. . . . But I am going to learn from this top and move on. My goal for my sewing is to make clothes which both fit and are comfortable to wear.

Claire

Saturday, October 2, 2021

The Maker's Atelier Tie Front Blouse

 I loved this striped vicose georgette fabric from The Fabric Store and its weight and body were good to sew with. 

The pattern is from Frances Tobin's book The Maker's Atelier, The Essential Collection.


There is much to love about this collection of patterns and the pieces in the book are stunningly executed. It felt both exciting and a bit risky to be drafting this pattern from the back of a library book.


The pattern and construction were fairly straight forward. I made S1/2. I was highly suspicious of the sleeve head size - after I had cut it out! I wondered how my arms would move in this garment as the top of the sleeve appears too skinny. It does work and is comfortable across the back to wear, but this is due to the ‘relaxed’ fit. For me this can feel a little big and loose. If I make this again I figure perhaps I would take some of the width out? Or look for another pattern? The front sat slightly lower than I usually like to wear but I am confident I could adjust that for future makes.

The stripes are helpful for cutting and sewing although I did make a mistake when hemming and the lower front edges are uneven. I do honestly, intend to fix this some time. But I made the fateful move of putting it into the wardrobe and wearing it, so I am not sure when I will get back to adjust this. I also, kind of like this uneven hem, evidence of its maker.

I have the Origami top, also from The Maker’s Atelier, in my making pile and look forward to trying another pattern from this designer.

Claire

Saturday, September 25, 2021

Heron Top in Silk Georgette

It has been a while since I was here in this blog space, but some recent output at the sewing machine, along with reading some wonderful sharing of other sewists has led me back.

I have just finished this Heron Shirt in silk georgette from The Fabric Store.

I have two RTW shirts in similar styles, both of which don't quite work for a variety of reasons. The rust peasant style is a great colour and size, but short sleeves and slightly tight elastic cuffs are annoying - I am 5'9" and usually want more length in the body and sleeves. Plus the polyester fabric is very clingy. 

I like this silk top, but have sewn up the centre front slightly, and also find these sleeves short.

I bought this georgette fabric online, on an impulse, and since then it has sat in the cupboard scaring me. Finally I took the plunge.

First step was the treat the fabric with gelatine. This worked well to stabilise it. Something to consider though when looking at the fit toward the end of sewing, as the shoulders sat up slightly. Then once I washed the gelatine out it draped much better.

I listened to the Love 2 Sew episode on sewing delicate fabrics as I began this project, and the advice was very useful, especially to be patient.

I made a size 12 (NZ/AU/UK) adding 5cm to the body length and the sleeve based on my measurements. Turns out I didn't I need to do this so in the end shortened the sleeves only once they were completely finished. And shortened the body too but fortunately before I had finished the hem. 

As a Kiwi sewist I am so happy to be making a Made in NZ pattern. I love the style and feel of most of the Sewing Revival range and I have made the Nikau and Fernbird dresses, as well as Snug and Sidewinder pants. 

The simplicity of the pattern - only 3 pieces, front, back & sleeve - was pleasing. I think I will make this again, possibly in a weightier fabric with more drape. Next time though I will not start with the centre front seam. Instead I will dive further in and sew the sleeves and back first to warm up. I ended up unhappy with the way the centre seam was sitting so unpicked the seam and the hemmed edges - stich by stitch - and redid it. Happier with the result.

I will also make a slightly more generous channels for the elastic/ tie at the neck edge - gave myself conniptions pulling the tie through my delicate fabric on this one.

Reflecting on my process with this garment, I was sewing a delicate fabric which I don't have a lot of experience with. As a rule I don't make toilles, preferring to measure the pattern pieces, myself, and other similar garments I already own. But this is not unfalliable. From here on I have promised myself to try things on earlier and more often in my sewing process. I smile to see my approach, follow instructions through to the end, then out the garment on and wear. For this pattern it is really hard to gadge the fit and sizing until the neck is complete. So a sensible path would be to apply my experience and learning to making another Heron. 

Claire

Saturday, January 2, 2016

New Year Stash Sewing

The weather outside has been a little bit nasty these past two days.  

Good for the garden and water tanks though. And it has given me a lovely opportunity to start some sewing projects.
As warm up I cleared a couple of items from the mending pile (both re-hemmed) and into the wardrobe. Then as I was in the wardrobe I found a couple of wooden coat hangers to transform with some vintage fabric.


Next I am onto something to hang on these hangers - watch this space.

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Something for the pyjama drawer.

Yesterday I sewed up a couple of pairs of PJ pants.  Surprised myself how quickly they came together.  I used a Vogue pattern from my collection, 7054, and I have made these pants before.  Two pieces so really easy to make.
First pair in stripe, a piece of fabric from my cupboard, and it was completely used up on these pants - perfect.


Second pair I made from a recycled table cloth, also in my cupboard.  I am working on a quilt with table cloths, but this fabric was slightly off theme, yet perfect for a pair of pants, as the fabric is very soft.


I think I will call them my bush wren pants, as there sport a kiwi and a bush wren.  They also have an eclectic mix of Provincial New Zealand Buildings, including the Canterbury Cathedral, and Rotorua Rotunda. Sort of kitsch Kiwiana I guess.

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

On a roll

With the machine up there is nothing like a quick look in the stash while there is momentum about.  I bought this pattern inspired by a Fabric Store blog.  The was purchased with the takings after selling off excess fabric at the Fabric-a-Brac, (very very disciplined I thought).
The fabric was also purchased at The Fabric Store, at an earlier time, ahem, but now it is a dress, hooray.


Vogue V8805 in Linen from The Fabric Store

So now I know what I will be wearing when I go back to work 2015!

Friday, January 2, 2015

New Year Holiday Making

A lovely start to 2015 at my sewing machine.  I received a gift of some sheer fabric, collected by a special friend from the road side inorganic collection.
 


I created a top with two rectangles, a couple of seams, and added a belt.  The hemming and seams were far less scary then I imagined, and have given me confidence to embark on a few other pieces in the stash.

Then as a final challenge I have installed the Blogger App to publish this post, nothing like a New Year to prompt new skills.