The Maker's Atelier Tie Front Blouse

 I loved this striped vicose georgette fabric from The Fabric Store and its weight and body were good to sew with. 

The pattern is from Frances Tobin's book The Maker's Atelier, The Essential Collection.

There is much to love about this collection of patterns and the pieces in the book are stunningly executed. It felt both exciting and a bit risky to be drafting this pattern from the back of a library book.

The pattern and construction were fairly straight forward. I made S1/2. I was highly suspicious of the sleeve head size - after I had cut it out! I wondered how my arms would move in this garment as the top of the sleeve appears too skinny. It does work and is comfortable across the back to wear, but this is due to the ‘relaxed’ fit. For me this can feel a little big and loose. If I make this again I figure perhaps I would take some of the width out? Or look for another pattern? The front sat slightly lower than I usually like to wear but I am confident I could adjust that for future makes.

The stripes are helpful for cutting and sewing although I did make a mistake when hemming and the lower front edges are uneven. I do honestly, intend to fix this some time. But I made the fateful move of putting it into the wardrobe and wearing it, so I am not sure when I will get back to adjust this. I also, kind of like this uneven hem, evidence of its maker.

I have the Origami top, also from The Maker’s Atelier, in my making pile and look forward to trying another pattern from this designer.

Claire

Orla Kiely Work Bag

 What a delight to have finally made this much awaited work bag.

The Orla Kiely oil cloth remnant was from The Fabric Store some time back. . . .

The bag is capacious, to fit all I need to carry on my walk to and from work. This includes usually, lunch, a change of shoes, umbrella, plus other bits and bobs.

The contrast fabric is from our local Geoff's Emporium in Warkworth - thermal backed curtain fabric. I like the colour match although is it not a waterproof fabric. The straps were a colour matched webbing, slightly narrower than ideal, so I added a layer of the contrast to this - more comfortable on the shoulder and to carry.

I followed a bag pattern from this Japanese sewing book, purchased in Tokyo in 2019. I have made another earlier attempt. This was not successful in terms of the fabric choice - too soft, the size - too small, and the handles - too wide and too short. Good learning though.

I listened to the Love 2 Sew podcast interview with bagmaker Anna Graham. My main takeaway was there will be awkward tricky bits when sewing bags with oil cloth - just take it slow and keep going. Turned out to be good advice. 

There were a few revelations - usually I figured out a better method after I had done somethings. My key learning was the webbing does not need to be hemmed, just melt the cut end on a flame.

Claire

Heron Top in Silk Georgette

It has been a while since I was here in this blog space, but some recent output at the sewing machine, along with reading some wonderful sharing of other sewists has led me back.

I have just finished this Heron Shirt in silk georgette from The Fabric Store.

I have two RTW shirts in similar styles, both of which don't quite work for a variety of reasons. The rust peasant style is a great colour and size, but short sleeves and slightly tight elastic cuffs are annoying - I am 5'9" and usually want more length in the body and sleeves. Plus the polyester fabric is very clingy. 

I like this silk top, but have sewn up the centre front slightly, and also find these sleeves short.

I bought this georgette fabric online, on an impulse, and since then it has sat in the cupboard scaring me. Finally I took the plunge.

First step was the treat the fabric with gelatine. This worked well to stabilise it. Something to consider though when looking at the fit toward the end of sewing, as the shoulders sat up slightly. Then once I washed the gelatine out it draped much better.

I listened to the Love 2 Sew episode on sewing delicate fabrics as I began this project, and the advice was very useful, especially to be patient.

I made a size 12 (NZ/AU/UK) adding 5cm to the body length and the sleeve based on my measurements. Turns out I didn't I need to do this so in the end shortened the sleeves only once they were completely finished. And shortened the body too but fortunately before I had finished the hem. 

As a Kiwi sewist I am so happy to be making a Made in NZ pattern. I love the style and feel of most of the Sewing Revival range and I have made the Nikau and Fernbird dresses, as well as Snug and Sidewinder pants. 

The simplicity of the pattern - only 3 pieces, front, back & sleeve - was pleasing. I think I will make this again, possibly in a weightier fabric with more drape. Next time though I will not start with the centre front seam. Instead I will dive further in and sew the sleeves and back first to warm up. I ended up unhappy with the way the centre seam was sitting so unpicked the seam and the hemmed edges - stich by stitch - and redid it. Happier with the result.

I will also make a slightly more generous channels for the elastic/ tie at the neck edge - gave myself conniptions pulling the tie through my delicate fabric on this one.

Reflecting on my process with this garment, I was sewing a delicate fabric which I don't have a lot of experience with. As a rule I don't make toilles, preferring to measure the pattern pieces, myself, and other similar garments I already own. But this is not unfalliable. From here on I have promised myself to try things on earlier and more often in my sewing process. I smile to see my approach, follow instructions through to the end, then out the garment on and wear. For this pattern it is really hard to gadge the fit and sizing until the neck is complete. So a sensible path would be to apply my experience and learning to making another Heron. 

Claire

New Garden Notes #3

Making changes!! So there is a large tulip tree at the front of our section which dominates the property. It is a favourite of the pigeons too. But it is kind of big, and well, we want to make some changes. We contemplated topping it and planting nearby to somehow make the transition easier, but  this was what we decided instead.

Awesome tree people came, and in a day the property was transformed.

Including taking out all the palms. 

Let's see how this space develops from here.

New Garden Notes #2

Here is one of our visitors in our Kowhai. The tree has grown slightly skewed, I think due to the weight of these guys! They are lovely to have and under the tree there is a small Kowhai nursery. One transplanted so far, and three small seedlings still to carefully relocate.

A little research in the neighbourhood I have found a wonderful Australian Frangipani tree. I tracked these down to Ardmore nurseries and now we have one in our front garden.

From little things big things grow. That small tree is going to spread to fill this space and provide screening of our driveway from the street - watch this space.
Fast growing and evergreen, and a height that will be manageable.






And then to the working area - round the back the new shed. Although tucked away the advantage is it will only have garden things inside. Too close and all sorts end up in there :)
Path created from some concrete slabs about the place. There will be some green screening which will evolve in time too - watch this space.

Legacy

Ten months overdue here is my Legacy piece to share. Thank you Marianda for a wonderful theme.

For me this theme was the legacy of this 12x12 project we all embarked on together. I did not have any real idea about the form my work would take. Or where I would end up. Except it would be a different place from the beginning. That is the legacy of 12x12 for me.

I have tried many different ideas over the works so far - still have WWII to go Veronicah. This piece  followed ideas from Floating Squares in The Improv Handbook for Modern Quilters.

I confess I found the freehand cutting a real challenge. And I had mixed feelings about the piece as it progressed - started ages ago, and left a couple of times. But it seemed to come together.

Quilting was fun. I have enjoyed beginning to explore making marks on pieces, it adds another layer which I like more and more.

Finally there was this evaluation exercise. I love the opportunity to use this tool to set my course . . . 

So where to next? Well it is taking the confidence of these nine pieces so far, and building on this work to see my own voice emerge. Playing, balancing focus on process with product . . . so many different ideas competing, all needing me to nurture this making life and the support of creative friends - thank you all.

New Garden Notes #1

Last year we moved to a new home, and a new garden! It was sad to leave Sandspit, with lots of memories linked to those spaces, but my goodness what fun to be in a new space.

My last posts here were sewing projects, a long time ago. While there is still activity indoors, it is August after all, much has been happening outside. This is a record of progress so far. Starting at the beginning.
When we arrived in spring there was a lot of grean. The front of the property was dominated by a 30m Tulip tree. There is a pair of cabbage trees and a kowhai - a favourtie spot for kereru.

A Copper Beech tree provides a backdrop behind our house. In leaf it is grand. Those leaves provide a few challenges in other seasons! 

The concrete drive is brilliant from a ultilitarian viewpoint. And our cars are so much cleaner than when we had a metal drive!

Our section is 800m2 with a small pool. 5 Queen palms were near the pool and a Port Wine Magnolia created a green focus. A wonderful canvas.

So this is the beginning. . . . .