2021 Makes versus Plans!

 At the start of this year I wanted to make 12 things. The idea was mainly clothes to wear, but also a bag. I wanted to reduce the fabric in my cupboard. Although I don't have a huge stash, I was somewhat overwhelmed by having material I had previously bought with big plans, only to have it sit in a box in my cupboard for, quite literally, years in some cases.

We have lived in our house for 5 years, and during this time there has been a gradual paring down of, well, 'stuff'. Part of living intentionally, wanting things to enhance my life, not engulf it. It has not been a dramatic Swedish Death Cleanse but a reflective process applied when energy permits.

So here was my plan.

So I executed 7 of these. The results were mixed.

(top row)

1 The Kingfisher top - still to get there. I have some silk but need ribbing. Then found I had a lot of ribbing but not quite the right solour. Then I found I had some scraps which might work, still might too - check in with me next year!

2 Ditto above for the Kobe top - so glad I bought both these patterns though because I am set (LOL)!!

3 Gingham checked shirt is as photographed. I am delighted with this. It is from a Japanese magazine purchased in Tokyo, Nippon Sewing district. On a rather hot 2019 day I lugged my purchases around; These included this red checked gingham and the 3 magazines I had bought and a lot of other fabric too. I have sewn up 4 pieces of fabric from that trip. I have worn this shirt a bit, so that feels good. I am a little wary of Japanese pattern sizing, but this did work. I may make it again. I think next time possibly a more drape in the fabric choice would be good.

4 The Kimono Top I have made before, including sorting some sizing issues. My first one was too large on the neckline which I adjusted mid-make. This orange one was made from a vintage table cloth. I confess I am not sure how wearable it is, but this summer will tell.

(row 2)

5 New Look 8536. This coat I have half cut out - then hit a snag, well I made a mistake. So I bundled it up and will look at it again one day. Given the fabric was some which I have had for at least 5 years, it will keep. 

6 Sewing Revival Snug Pants, I made in a striped cotton knit. These are my 2nd pair. I often live all day in my merino pair. Always need to remember to allow for a full calf adjustment, even in knit! I miss pockets in this pattern.

7 Capsule Trousers. I have a 3/4 made pair of trousers from the Capsule Wardrobe book. I am not sure I was thinking at all when I embarked on these, and they do need finishing. If I listen to Heather Lou's (Closet Core Patterns) pep talk I will get to the end and not focus on the fitting issues. My plan is to do an online course with Heather Lou for the next fitted pants make. So these did not make it over the line this year but they are not completely abandoned.

8 Friday Pattern Company V Neck Tee Shirt. I made two V-neck tee shirts, with this free pattern. In two different sizes. I was planning these would be for general in the garden and possibly tramping. The merino knit I used was way too fine. One shirt I managed a lovely finish on neckline, the other not so much. Chalk it up to learning, and for me buying fabric online does not produce the best outcomes.

(bottom row)

9 My Heron Shirt I am delighted with.

10 Morgan jeans pattern and online course purchased, fabric at the ready - this is getting bumped to 2022! Sewing jeans seems to be a 'big' project, but as this year has progressed and I have regularly spent more time sewing (13 weeks of lockdown helped) this has opened up the possibility of 'larger' projects.

11 The Sewing Revival Nikau dress was a success in Japanese linen. I am going to review the fit after reading a blog by Lucy and seeing how she made hers a little straighter. But it is in my wardrobe and in use, and who am I kidding that I will actually alter it!

12 Sidewinder Pants. I have a mixed relationship with the Sewing Revival Sidewinder Pants. I think largely my results have been due to fabric choices - put simply not enough drape, which is spelled out very clearly in the pattern instructions too I might add. I have already made 2 pairs, and neither worked exceptionally well. Then I tried these in a cotton, (I think) from The Fabric Store. I added the cuff after a couple of wears, but there is not enough drape and the bottom can look a bit romper like. The fabric tends to bag a bit after a wear, which means more washing and ironing than is my natural inclination. I am not giving up on this pattern though, I just need to select my fabric more carefully.

So there's the wrap! Time to look forward to the journey into 2022 and the makes it may contain . . . 

Claire

Legacy

Somewhere, on Instagram, or a sewing blog, or podcast there was mention of using up those ends of thread spools for basting. It was a small light bulb moment as I have a pile of those from my Mum.

There is something oddly pleasing about finishing these small tail ends. It appeals to my sense of thrift, as well as my ongoing desire to have less 'stuff'. Or more accurately to have things in my life which enhance it rather than weigh me down.

This trip into the drawer of assorted left over threads is also an opportunity to reflect on my mother's making life, and how she has influenced my making life - legacy.

Born just at the start of WWII my mother grew up in a small farming villlage, Ormond, just out of Gisborne in provincial New Zealand. Thrift was creative but it was also about getting by; nothing was wasted, much was kept for some future use or re-use.

Gran, my maternal grandmother was not a sewer although I recall Mum told me that she did knit socks and could turn a heel. There was  treadle Singer dewing machine in that house and I understand my mother and her sisters all sewed, by necessity I think. According to Mum one sister's work was carefully and very thoroughtly constructed, whilst the other sister left the house wearing dresses which, it could be argued, were unfinished. However this is only one view, and that Aunt has reassured me that her clothes never fell apart. (That sort of logic would appeal to the generation of young men in my house - why expend any more effort than is absolutely essential, but that is another story.)

My mother was a prolific maker across many fields. Sewer of clothes, for herself, my father my brother and me, of soft furnishings, table linen, countless pot mits and aprons, and quilts. A knitter of jerseys, hats and scarves. In the kitchen a preserver and chutney relish and jam maker. In the garden she was a sometime help mate in the vegetable garden, which was mainly my father's domain, but shared duties in the orchard pruning and harvesting. She also kept a large well maintained garden full of plants collected or grown from cuttings. Her home making skills extended to interior renovations, wall-papering and painting and, as often recalled by my father, she polyurethaned the entire corktile floor. She had her own Estwing woman's hammer, which I have inherited. She restored countless pieces of furniture, rescued from back rooms and sheds of her childhood home, as well as recovered from skip bins or discovered at the second hand mart. She also tried her hand at many a making trend, from macrame plant hangers, and basket making.

In the 2020 Auckland Writer's Festival Paula Morrison made a comment about her migrant English mother being slightly exasperated as the talents of the New Zealand housewife in the 1960's. 'They made everything'.  

I feel immensely grateful for my mother's model of a 'making life'. This also included making friendships which I can relate to. Those people who like to create are a vital part of growing and learning. I have special friends I have made at sewing classes, or with our hands in finger paint as Playcentre mums. These friendship foster my own creative pursuits, as well as spawning opportunities to try new ideas. Not surprisingly there are often many similarities we share about growing up with sewing and making mothers. I recall the delight in reminiscing with a friend about the novel containers our mothers made in the late 1970's. The bases were 2 litre icecream containers, holes punched around the upper rim, and a drawerstring bag attached, most likely in orange paisely or floral patterned fabric. In our house these were our 'camping toilet bags', in hers they were 'wet tog bags'.

Thinking back I am in awe of all the clothes she sewed for me, and my dolls. Wedding dress for my bride doll, dancing outfits, dresses, togs, the list goes on and on. If she were here now I would like to reflect on this huge body of work. 

I still have my Vogue Individualist  Claude Montana 1492 pattern, slightly tattered through much use, as a reminder of all those clothes. I remember the skirt, in a navy blue linen-like, the shirt, one in a deep teal but these were others, and the pants, made multiple times.

Although my parents never threw things away, which led to a mammoth job when I was clearing out their home of 50 years, Mum did in fact use a lot of these saved 'resources'. Thinking in particular about her sewing this would now be termed stash busting. Seems trendy these days but for my Mum this was a  habit of lifelong resourcefulness. Things were thoughtfully saved and stored. Scraps of fabric re-appears as pocket linings. And the thread, at the end of a project - the bobbin thread was carefully wound back onto the spool for use at a later date.

So there is a nice sense of connection as I use up these saved threads.

Claire, October 2021

Cheyenne Tunic in Rayon

 This is a garment which is inspired by a much worn, now retired due to tatty condition, favourite shirt. This is Hey June Cheyenne Tunic. 

Fabric

I was looking for a rayon or viscose, ideally in a geometric print, but I wanted to feel and purchase the fabric in store. And as I only went to one store that narrowed the options. The weight, drape and temperature of this fabric is really really lovely to wear. I am slightly suspicious of how it will wear with a few pin marks needing gentle pressing after construction. That said I did unpick a bit on the collar, and it has pressed up well.

The make:

After sewing a succession of very simple garments there was  a bit of hesitation on the scale of this shirt, and all the many pattern pieces. But once I began I enjoyed the process. I started with some of the smaller pieces, sewing the pockets and the sleeve tabs first, procrastinating and also getting a feel for the fabric before I tackled the front shaped half placket. This is evidence of smarter operating - why do so many patterns have you start on the centre front with the first seam.

The fit was fine, apart from adding 5cm to the body length. The sleeve length was OK but I must say once finished I am tempted to make them simpler next time. I think I will mainly wear them 3/4 length rolled up, so the work of the cuff and placket seem unecessary.

I found the directions of the front placket slightly tricky and I am still not sure of the final result. I see there is a sew along so I will research this before I sew this up again - which I plan to do 2022, maybe in a winter weight . . .

Claire

Sewing Self Care - Comfy Nightwear x 3

Much has been written about self care, and sewing, and the combination. But just for the record I agree.

This is a the True Bias Lodo Dress pattern. The idea was taken from Love, Lucy who wrote about using this pattern for nighties. (She has also documented a make that was inspired by seeing a fellow sewist's results. So I figure it might be OK to admit this is where the idea came from.) As a latecomer to the online sewing community and indie patterns, I do rather like having this connection with the pattern designer.

The striped fabric was from The Fabric Store and was an online purchase I made in a flurry in 2020. I was planning to make a pair of pants and bought 2 pieces of striped cotton knit. I have made one pair into The Sewing Revival Snug Pant. It was lighter weight than this, and on reflection this knit is 'winter' weight.

This is S14, it is very comfortable in bed! I also loved that little bit of extra length, slightly more cosy.

My first True Bias Pattern. It is a very simple design and the woven facings will no doubt help this garment throught the rigours of night wear and a fast rotation through the washing machine.

I am enjoying the chance to pivot, see an idea, grab some fabric and sew. It is also nice to be able to fill a wardrobe gap with such ease - I ditched a couple of nighties recently and the remainder on rotation are also looking, frankly, a bit shabby.

On a roll I have made 2 more Lodo nighties, both in S12. One is a cotton knit, the other a rayon, both from Spotlight. I love the feel of the rayon knit to sleep in and it is slightly cooler than the cotton. So much fun to sew, and fun prints I like. 

It is tempting to plan to replenish my supplies. Especially after such a productive time of Lockdown Sewing.  As I began to write this we were going to be able to actually visit fabric stores, in person, after 3 months of lockdown restrictions. I always look forward to some purposeful browsing with my list of want-to-makes, to feel the weight touch and drape of some options. But I rather hope too that I will be sufficently disciplined. My aim is to be sewing fabric I am still in the first flush of love with.  To have some clear space to make connections, lean enough stock to have creative ideas. To be considerate towards future me, that I might be able to buy material in the future which reflects sewing I want to do then - and right now I do not know what that may be.

Claire

December 2021

Nikau Dress by Sewing Revival

 This is another pattern by Kiwi designer Sewing Revival. Easy to sew, and also easy to wear.

I made size M and added to 5cm the length - usually necessary as I am 5'9" (at least I was, and still identify with this height!).

The fabric was purchased in Tokyo 2019, a light weight linen. This is a simple dress. There were two belt version, one wider but I went for the narrow one. I think the wider would be more of a feature. On the reverse of my belt I used another Japanese linen for a little twist of contrast.

The instructions and construction are fairly straight forward. Will I make it again? Not sure. The neckline is not a favourite, but I realise now I could hack this too, although to what I am not sure. I would recommend this pattern though for a simple summer make.

(Excuse the lock-down hair, 4 months since last haircut, 9 days to go til hairdresser appointment!)

Claire 

2021

My Faithful Bernina Nova 900

My faithful workhorse of a machine, the 1982 Bernina Nova, was a 21st birthday present in 1987. 

Before then I was using my mother's hand me down Bernina, which was, to my recollection, also a perfectly fine machine. The highpoint for me with that machine was sewing a dress for my first year Ball at University. I recall this very well as I ended up constructing two bodices. Both were well made, the first just 3 inches too short!

My 'current' machine was bought second hand from the local Bernina dealer in my home town Gisborne, New Zealand. My mother made the decision and purchase. She was very familiar with this model as she herself has bought herself a brand new one several years before.

So this machine has been in my life for more than 30 years. I confess there have been times I have considered upgrading, but now, I think we've made it this far it's probably a keeper.

At one time a fancier and newer model caught my eye with it's automatic button hole program. The 1982 Nova does have this feature but it sews the second bead in reverse, and the finish is not quite as good as the modern programing which makes both beads sewn forward with a tighter satin stitch finish. But, seriously, when a garment is complete and makes it into the wardrobe, who ever looks at the quality of the button holes. When I had these thoughts I was doing some sewing classes, one of which was making a tailored jacket - I wanted a keyhole style button hole. Again beyond the level of my machine. But at that time (late 1990's Auckland, New Zealand), I found somewhere that did these button holes, 50 cents each. Sad to think that 25+ years on I don't think this place would be existence.

More recently I did crave three stitch long zigzag stitch option which my faithful Nova does not do. This was likely for some quilting style project. Anyway, given that now I struggle to remember the exact details, the conclusion is we got through this period of unrest! I suspect this machine will be with me for life. 

As you would expect with a machine of it's vintage, we do run into a few problems. But my reliable, no-nonsense machine service man tells me for my machine we have fixed the top three issues so maybe all that behind us. I love the way the foot pedal offers brilliant speed control, literally a stitch at a time.

Curiously. I did end up with my mother's machine as well. Unfortunately it suffered one of the common age-related problems for for this model, the foot pedal either didn't go at all, or it went hell for leather. It was quietly put out to pasture. Actually it was donated to Ribbon Rose who said they could use it for parts. They support new sewers in South Auckland, and I do hope there were some parts which were useful and may be launching a sewer on their way our there.

Claire

October 2021