Liesl and Co Classic Shirt

Finally I have made this shirt, twice. Liesl & Co Classic Shirt.

I loved the scale of it, even the number of pattern pieces seemed to take forever to cut out. It is a long time since I have made a tailored shirt and I enjoyed it.

Fabric: 

1 Grey striped linen from the Nippon Sewing District in Tokyo which was a dream to sew. And 2 was a piece brought at a Retro store in Gisborne, It has good drape and possibly is a viscose, in a coral pink colour (which is not in my usualy colour palette).

Size: I made a 12, and added length to the body and sleeves. The result is a more volumous shirt than I was thinking. 

If there is one thing that would improve my results it would be more attention to sizing. As I sew more, I do now look at the finished garment measurements and consider the ease. But the next step would be to baste together the key pieces for an early assessment. I confess I cannot ever imagine making a toile!

These sleeves are too long. I think I would make the cuff width narrower next time as well.

I liked batch sewing. I tried a couple of different collar construction methods although I did not document them and would not be sure which worked better for me, or the fabric so I must make better notes next time.

I am putting a size 10 version of this on my 2023 plans, might even already have some fabric here I could use!

Trigg Shorts

In this my 3rd year of more sewing, I ventured into making shorts for my 20 something son. He is a tall unit and I figured I would give Mum-made-shorts, made to hopefully fit, a try. The sewing would be straight forward, but how would they be received? Well it turned out.

I chose the Trigg shorts pattern, by Perth based Elbe Textiles. Elastic waisted shorts, so I imagine there are loads of pattern options, but there were good reviews, and I liked Lauren's story.

#1 pair was in a grey stretch demin, which felt a little bit heavy as I sewed them. In consultation there was some contrast top stitching.

I did get feedback that the fabric softened up in wear and washing. And a request for deeper pockets please for the phone.

 #2 and #3 are now completed ready for Christmas. This time the fabric feels slightly lightweight but I hope these will work for summer. I have made deeper front pockets, but as I write this it suddenly occurs to me perhaps the request was for deeper back pockets? I guess that I can redo those if needed. Pictured here, still waiting for the cord.

More Elastic Waisted Pants - Sidewinders

 An impromtu week at home with Covid gave me a chance to sew. After nailing a couple of pair of shorts for my son, I sewed up another pair of Sewing Revival Sidewinder pants.

These were in fabric possibly from my local emporium, not sure. A black/grey cotton pinstripe it has a slightly snuggly wrong side which has a bit or warmth. Unforunately altough I have made these pants before, with some fitting modifications, I had not recorded these well on my pattern so cut to the orignal. The result is the pants sit lower than I like. (I have adjusted the pattern now and made careful notes!)

I love the concept of the sidewinding seam on these pants but this fabric does not really highlight this. I like the flat front finish, and the fit is comfortable without being too baggy in the rear. The construction of the band is great and I was pleased with the finish. I added some elasrtic to the back half of the cuff, a detail copied from a friend's RTW pants.

I have previously made this pattern 3 times, altough only one of those pairs is still in my wardrobe - down to poor fabric choice for the other two.

My relationship with elastic waisted pants is a mixed one. I like the finsh and look of fitted trousers, but given I have a pair of clasic pants hanging half finished in my sewing room, I think I am drawn to the elastic waists as these are more fit-friendly. My me-made collection includes Sidewinders and Pallisade pants. My blue sidewinders are the most well worn. The Pallisades I have worn a little less. I prefer the cleaner line of the pockets on the sidewinder to the 'hippy' Pallisade pockets.

Next on the list is a pair of Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks, I will be interested to try this design.

TNT Lodo - Reflections during Me-Made-May

I am not sure I understood about Me-Made-May in 2021, but this year was time to dip my toe in! Taking photos, even a few, proved a bit of an ask. But the reflections on what I was wearing was a lot of fun.

Ticked off my goal to participate easy enough, but my 'uh huh' moment was realising I acutally wear more me-made than RTW night wear! 

I completed my 4th Lodo nightie, and with that I really have a TNT pattern too - another milestone worth noting.

So, or should I say sew, one garment at a time I am progressing towards a me-made wardrobe which this time last year seemed like a pipe dream.

Thanks in large part to Zoe Edwards @sozoblog for creating a wonderful 'event'.

Me Made Wardrobe - A Quest for Fit

I am not sure I had a goal when this recent burst of enthusiam and energy for sewing hit me, but now it is all about fit. 

In recent times I have pondered how to think about my wardrobe. There has been a considered and quiet purging in my life as I re-evaluated my 'stuff'. I started to notice what was supporting me toward the life I want to be living, and what was there just because. I has the overwhelming experience of helping my ageing father move out of the family home of 50 years. Then 5 years ago moving house myself provided a brilliant opportunity for review. The energy of moving stuff, actually handling all those things which really, truly, have neither been used nor seen the light of day for literally years - phew!

When it comes to my wardrobe I am not particularly sentimental about keeping things, and do tend to cull to make way for the new. I have a wooden 'glory' box for my off season clothes, and when I make the transition there are usually items which either don't make it into the box to start, or don't transfer back into the wardrobe next season. 

Recently I prepared a photobook for one of my sons' birthdays. It was curious to see myself wearing clothes I had long since forgotten. In some cases I wondered why I hadn't kept a particular dress or top. But I trust the decision I made at the time. There were also clothes which I know would not appeal to 2022 me.

The concept of a me-made-wardrobe has seemed quaintly ambitious. But as my output increases in a pleasurable way I am emboldended to plan and dream. Increasingly when I put on my clothes I am noticing, and quantifying, those fit issues here and there. That lovely shirt with the tie sleeve trims which do not do up. Those trousers which are long enough but too full in the butt. Those sleeves which are too short. 

As these two ideas, sewing more and becoming cognisant of how clothes fit me, come together I see myself planning to make garments I want wear. This includes better versions of those I already have. And in some cases fixing some of the fit issues with existing garments, me made or not. 

Recently I adjusted a cuff top. This was a gift from a sewing friend, and I enjoyed wearing it, liking both the style and the fabric choice. But it was a little large. Here are the 'before' pictures.

Oh the fun of making adjustments, which were a pleasure with this fabric. And also working on someone else's hand sewn garment revealed insights to their process. There is the confidence needed to take up scissors, and make the cut. Overall though I am happy with the result. Maybe to an untrained eye not much has changed. But for the wearer the comfort is massively improved. Here are the results.

In terms of style, well I think and hope that will always be dynamic. While the 2022 plans include fluid tops and some fitting bottoms, I'm open to heading in a different direction beyond that.

Claire

Another Augustina (2022)

 I was quite taken with my first go at this pattern, re-purposing a garment into a top which was so handy. Then spring came and the temperatures warmed up, and a summer version seemed like a smart plan.

I found a small piece of cotton flax honeycomb, the bolt end, at Spotlight - perfect. The texture is nice to touch, the weight lends itself to adding a layer without adding bulk and I like the interest of the woven design.

If I judge a garment’s success by the number of wears, this one is a winner. Teamed here with a me made silk top (top) and a me made cotton skirt (bottom).

2022 Plans

I was a latecomer to the wonderful Instagram sewing community, (could be my family's description of me as a technology luddite does bear some truth) so possibly I am embracing ideas which others may have have long since abandoned, like Make Nine plans. Frankly that does not matter - it is enormous fun, to dream and record and edit and add and subtract!

The format of a grid is appealing in terms of structuring a plan, especially to a girl who likes a list! But to be restrained to a plan of nine was clearly not going to allow enough dreaming, no wiggle room. Perhaps it is better to plan big and fall short? After all the exercise is one to move sewing up the priority list.

Taking a moment to reflect on my 2021 year of making, much of the sewing I did was not on my radar at the start of the year. Things evolved, and my makes were informed by what preceded them. 

There are many strands of influence woven into my approach now.  

Sheri Lynn Wood writes in her Improv Quilting Handbook about the power of that reflective pause with questions like what went well? What did you enjoy? What surprised you? There are countless wonderful sewers who have been interviewed by Helen and Caroline on Love 2 Sew who talk about wardrobe planning through sewing diaries to how we record our makes, and what new skills we want to challenge ourselves with. Then closer to home is the up close experience of seeing my friend Maitland’s wonderfully creative Fantail tops.

As the year begins I have some rough plans. 

As always I would like to make up fabric I already have. Finally I have everything recorded on a spreadsheet which makes it very visible, something which appeals to me. I have 9 pieces. But I would also like to venture out on fabric shopping trips, make time to try some new sources. 

In my wardrobe I have several garments which have not been worn for some time. Refashioning these is part of my 2022 goal.

I would like to make garments to wear in my non working life. This has emerged after reading a wardrobe planning book and realising that not only do I already have lots of work clothes which I like and wear, sewing plans have gravitated to this type of garment. I would like to put energy into what I wear for the rest of my life!

In the same vein as purchasing fabric is easy to do, in excess of my actual production rate, it turns out online patterns are simply a click away. Also catalogued on my spreadsheet there are 10 patterns still waiting to be used. I plan to use them this year.

Sew knits. I have a couple of RTW garments I would like to try to copy, a raglan sweatshirt and my favourite tee shirt. A cover stitch machine is in my plans for this year too.

Having spent more time in my sewing space I have been making tweaks and improvements which in turn re-energises me. I did have a cutting table on my wish list for my husband to make, but a recent brainwave about doubling my mat area and using the dining table seems to have solved that. Small additions such as a small rotary cutter which I was given for Christmas are a way of showing love and attention to my making life. I look forward to seeing how the space continues to evolve.

How do these plans shape up under a reality check? Well pretty doable I think. Watch this space.

Claire

January 2022